Wichita R/C Raceway
2339 E MaCarthur Rd
Wichita, KS 67213
Located in Emery Park

Our track will be open for public use 10am - 9pm Mon.- Tues. It may be closes for repairs as needed The facility is maintained by the Wichita R/C Raceway. We hold organized races and everyone is encouraged to come out and participate. only race participants are allowed to use the track during the race event. We are accepting memberships to the track, members will have access to the track and drivers stand during normal park hours, and receive reduced gate fees at our regular events. Click on the Schedule or Join links for more detailed information. As a member of the Wichita R/C Raceway you are supporting a local activity. As a member of the Wichita R/C Raceway you can take advantage of reduced entry fees and free member races. You do not need to be a competitive racer to be a member, The Wichita R/C Raceway is met to be fun for everyone. The majority of R/C enthusiasts are people just like you. You can participate in our membership program to help keep our local R/C track alive even if you are not an avid enthusiast.

ABOUT US
Wichita R/C Raceway, Inc. is a non-profit Kansas organization that is made possible by donations of time, monies, and materials from volunteers, members, and businesses of our community. We are proud to offer back to our community a family environment for R/C car and truck enthusiasts to enjoy the hobby. During any of our events anyone can participate and you need not be a member of our organization although it is encouraged. Your donations are what makes this facility possible, although it is located in a public park it is strictly up to membership, entry fees, donations, and volunteers to keep the facility active. It is also very important to have R/C car and truck enthusiast come out and use the track as with out an interest there's no need for a track.

GOALS
Our goal is to construct and maintain a public radio controlled car park. This park will provide a safe and structured environment for children and adults alike to operate their radio controlled cars. We are soliciting funding from the City of Wichita, local businesses, and hobby manufacturers. All funding and materials will be used for construction and maintenance of the facility.

DONATIONS
We are currently accepting sponsorships. For a small tax deductible donation of $250 you could have a sign up to 2'x3' displayed during race events. If you cannot provide a sign or banner up to 2'x3' we will require a $300 minimum donation to cover the cost of labor and materials. All sponsors, will also receive a link on the sponsor page. If you are interested in becoming a sponsor or if you need more information please contact: Our sincere THANKS goes out to all Sponsors.

Tax Status and Deductibility
Wichita RC Raceway is a non-profit corporation incorporated under the laws of Kansas. It is exempt from federal tax under Internal Revenue Code 501(c)(3). Contributions to Wichita RC Raceway are tax deductible. Goals Our goal is to construct and maintain a public radio controlled car park. This park will provide a safe and structured environment for children and adults alike to operate their radio controlled cars. We are soliciting funding from the City of Wichita, local businesses, and hobby manufacturers. All funding and materials will be used for construction and maintenance of the facility.

Donations Needed to Improve Track
The following items would greatly improve the ability to maintain the track and or add to the enjoyment of coming to the track. Wichita R/C Raceway is a non-profit corporation and your donation may be tax deductible receipts will be provided if needed. All money and hard good donations go back into the track. If you have or know of someone who may have one or more of the items please contact one of the track managers or talk to that person and ask them to consider a donation to the track. We cannot accept items on borrowed terms due to the potential for theft and or vandalism that the track has endured. All items will become the property of Wichita R/C Raceway. All items will be accessible to track maintenance volunteers.

For a complete list of projects see our project list Small hand tools and supplies 3/8 or � inch steel rebar, minimum length of 12 inches. 1" ID garden hose Weather proof outdoor 8 ohm loud speakers for sound system Large items Small lawn tractor must be in running condition and be at least 10 horsepower. It is not necessary that the cutting deck works. It will be used to drag the track lanes and pull small cart for moving dirt and materials. Yard Sweep type pulled behind lawn tractor to be used to broom track Track construction Items Clay type soil (as much as possible) Up to 2000 feet of 4 inch drain tile (Track border) Up to 1000 feet of 4" PVC pipe (Track border) Up to 200 feet of 12"x12' Hardy Plank siding Misc Extra Heavy Vandal proof steel BBQ grill to permanently mount near track

GUIDE FOR A TYPICAL DAY OF RACING.
Most people try to arrive at the track as early as possible. This lets them prepare their cars, test their equipment and get some practice before the race. This is also a great time to talk to the other drivers and get help with problems you might be having. Don't be afraid to ask a more experienced racer to try out your vehicle. They may notice something in the handling you might have missed. Before turning on your controller you will need to go to the frequency board and pin your frequency. If the frequency is already pinned it is in use, you will need to wait until the clip is removed. If two people try and use the same frequency at the same time they will not be able to control their vehicles.� Before the race starts a signup sheet will be made available and an announcement will be made. You will fill out the signup sheet (print clearly so there are no miss understandings with your information). Before the races start the information will be entered into the race computer. If two people are singed up for the same class and have the same frequency a track official will work with the drivers to try and get one of them to a new frequency.

A few minutes before the race starts an announcement will be made to come get your transponder and you will pass it over the loop to be sure it is working properly and you have the right one. The race sheets will be posted. The race sheets shows who are in each race, the order of the races, everyone not in the first race needs to turn off all radios as soon as they can. Radios must remain off during the races when not being used for racing.

There will be an announcement made three minutes till the next race. At this time the racers in the first heat will pick up the transponder that you were assigned from the announcers booth then head to pit lane where you will securely attach the transponder and then start your car and head to the drivers stand. The drivers can stand where ever they wish on the stand just remember to be courteous to the other drivers on the stand. The landing going up to the drivers stand is not to be used as a driving location it interrupts the view for other drivers.

We use an AMBrc system drivers with personal transponder will need to enter their transponder number so it can be added to their profile. We also have track transponders for those that do not have personals. "Track transponders will require a deposit of a credit card, drivers license, or 120.00 cash the deposit will be returned on return of the transponder in original working condition as when you borrowed it."

The drivers from the last race will walk on to the track and stand at designated points. They will be the turn marshals. If a vehicle gets stuck near them it is their job to get the vehicle back in the race as soon as possible, but in a safe manner. Just like driving, it takes practice to be a good marshal. When you marshal, watch your area of responsibility, not the race. For the first race the drivers from the last race on the schedule will marshal. If you are unable to marshal, or need the time to get repairs made, you can ask another racer to take your place but make sure it is approved with the track director. If you do not marshal or get a replacement you will be docked one lap on your next race.

The race computer will sound out 1 minute to go at this point you should be headed for the starting gate. At the 30 second count you should be on the gate. A 10 second count down will began telling the drivers the race will start in less than 10 seconds. At the tone the gate is dropped and the race is started. You will be informed at three minute intervals of race progress. At the half way mark you will hear the running order of the cars. At the end of the race you are told to finish the lap you are on. The driver that completes the most laps, including his last one,� wins the race. If two or more drivers complete the same number of laps it goes in the order of lap times.

After the race the drivers collect their vehicles, turn them and their radio off. return track transponder to the base in its proper location. Those drivers must now marshal for the next race. This is repeated until every class has run once, that is the end of the first heat.

POINT RACES
Will run with the same principles from above, There will not be exceptions made for the marshalling rule. If you do not marshal or get a substitute you will be docked� on laps. We will run two heat races and a main for each class. The top driver from each of the lower mains ei; B, C, D- will move up in mains. Points are awarded for participation, Top Qualifier, and position placed.

History In 2003 the idea of having a remote control track in the Wichita area was developed, with research, and a business plan in hand we approached the City of Wichita. After meeting several times and acquiring the 501(c) and other items required the track was approved.

Construction started in 2004, by August we had our first race.� We used a generator to power pumps that pump water from the pond to keep the track damp and to power the laptop. We used car numbers to identify cars as they crossed the finish line and manually counted each one, by entering them into the computer. In 2005 we managed to get an electric meter put in and run a water line from the main. We borrowed a small camper to use as an announcer booth of sorts till we found a camper of our own. By August of 2005 we built a more permanent structure� for the announcers booth and acquired an AMBrc system for counting cars. In 2006 we add to the watering system by installing sprinkler heads aSeries the track to aid in keeping the track damp. Electric was ran to several areas to accommodate drivers needs for electric. A new starting gate was also built.

WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF RADIO CONTROL CARS!
Who hasn't fantasized about climbing behind the wheel of an exotic high-performance racing machine, or the latest street-legal super car Few of us can afford to make such fantasies become reality, but your automotive dreams can easily become real with radio control, or RC. RC cars are much more than models; they're fully-functional automobiles that can go as fast as 60MPH and are equipped with working suspension systems that borrow technology directly from the real deal. There are electric- and engine-powered kits to suit different tastes and budgets, and just about every type of wheeled machine can be replicated in RC. From monster trucks to dragsters, street sedans to off road stadium racers, you can experience them all with the radio control car hobby.

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN TOY RC CARS AND HOBBY RC CARS
The RC cars and trucks that you see on TV and in toy stores offer a great way for young people to get involved in a rewarding hobby; however, there are few similarities between these toy-grade vehicles and those you'll find at a hobby shop. For example, most hobby-grade R/C vehicles are available as an unassembled kit. You build the vehicle from the gSeries up, piece by piece, so you'll know exactly how it works and how to fix it if something breaks. With few exceptions, you'll be able to make repairs yourself without having to send it back to the manufacturer because you'll know the vehicle inside and out. Also, hobby-grade R/C vehicles are generally made of better materials than toy grade vehicles, so they can withstand the severe punishment of a backyard obstacle course or a high-speed cartwheel at the local parking lot. Hobby kits are designed to provide long life and superior performance.

THE MANY TYPES OF RC CARS AND TRUCKS
RC cars come in many shapes and sizes, from 1/24 scale models you can run on a tabletop to Scale behemoths that are as big as a tabletop. Here's a quick overview of the most popular RC categories:

ENGINE POWER OR ELECTRIC POWER
RC vehicles come in all shapes and sizes, but the most basic distinction between types of RC car models is their power source. All are either powered by an electric motor and battery, or an engine that runs on fuel. Which is better for a beginner Faster More fun The answers may surprise you!

ELECTRIC VEHICLES have the advantage of clean, quiet operation. They expel no fumes, and don't produce any significant noise. They can be operated indoors, cost less than similar engine-powered models, and are the easiest types of vehicles to get started in the hobby with. In terms of performance, electric models can have some disadvantages. Duration is limited by battery capacity, so you'll have to stop every ten minutes or so to recharge the battery pack (or install a fresh pack, if you have a few charged and ready to go). In stock form, electric vehicles are generally not as fast as similar nitro-powered machines, but it's easy to make an electric car faster with an aftermarket motor although such a modification will also decrease battery life.

ENGINE POWERED MODELS, which are more commonly called "nitro" kits, because they run on nitromethane-based fuel (more on that later), have two primary advantages: higher speed and longer run time. It's easy to make a "pit stop" for more fuel with a nitro-powered car, and keep driving with only a moment's interruption. But remember, the on-board battery that powers the vital radio gear will eventually need a recharge, so don't go too long without stopping! Nitro cars are generally faster than similar electrics and the realism of authentic engine sound and exhaust smoke add a gee-whiz factor that electrics can't match. But those can also be disadvantages, if you wish to operate the vehicle in an area where noise is an issue, or wish to run your car indoorsnitro-power is for the great outdoors only. Nitro cars also require more frequent maintenance, are more expensive than similar electric models, and tend to be a little messy, due to fuel and exhaust residue.

GETTING STARTED WITH ELECTRIC-POWERED MODELS
when you've settled on the type of kit you'd like to build, you'll have to buy the other items you'll need to get your project up and running. Here's what's required to build, control and run most electric-powered kits:

RADIO SYSTEM
when you've built your dream car, you'll need to control it somehow. Think of the radio as your link to the R/C vehicle gas pedal! A radio system consists of three major parts: the transmitter, receiver, and servos.
Transmitter: The unit that you hold in your hands is called the transmitter, and sends steering and throttle commands to the vehicle. The transmitter is usually configured as a pistol grip with a wheel on one side and a trigger in the traditional position. The trigger controls the throttle, and a wheel handles the steering.
Receiver: The second part of the system is called the receiver, and it's mounted inside the R/C vehicle. The receiver's job is to catch the signal from the transmitter and translate your commands into action, by sending the signals to the third part of the radio system: the servos.
Servos: These are also mounted inside the R/C vehicle, and are plugged into the receiver. Messages from the receiver tell the servo in which direction it should move and for how far.
The servos move the steering and throttle linkages to control speed and direction, as you command with the transmitter. Electric cars may use a servo and a mechanical speed control for throttle control, or may substitute the assembly for an electronic speed control, better known as an ESC. Click here to find out more about speed controls.

ELECTRIC VEHICLES
1/10 scale Buggies: Sleek and fast, buggies are great for racing or play. Most are two-wheel-drive (2WD), with top speeds of about 15-30 mph. For use on or off-road.
1/10 scale Stadium trucks: Stadium trucks share much of their component with buggies, but are wider and can handle rougher terrain thanks to increased suspension travel. Most are two-wheel-drive (2WD), with top speeds of about 15-30 mph. For use on or off road.
1/10 scale Monster trucks: This popular category includes 2WD and 4WD trucks. The 2WD models are more affordable and use a single motor; the 4WD monsters use two motors for super torque and crushing power. Both have soft, long-travel suspension to soak up bumps. Top speed is about 15mph. For use on or off road.
1/10 scale Touring cars: These are probably the most realistic electric RC cars, with bodies just like those you see on the highway everyday. Tourers are 4WD, and can go as fast as 40mph with the right motor. For use on road only.

BATTERY PACK AND BATTERY CHARGER
The battery pack is an electric vehicle's "gas tank"; when it's empty, you'll have to "re-fill" it by charging it with a battery charger. Battery packs are available with varying capacities, measured in milliamp hours. A "2000" pack has can store 2000milliamps of energy, and will allow a vehicle to operate for a longer duration than a "1500" pack with 1500 milliamps. But just as a full-size car does not go slower because there is less fuel in the tank, an electric vehicle does not go slower if the battery has reduced capacity (or faster if it has increased capacity).

BASIC HAND TOOLS
With few exceptions, electric-powered R/C kits can easily be put together using the simplest tools. In general, you'll need a slotted screwdriver and a Phillips screwdriver, a sharp hobby knife and a pair of needle-nose pliers. Most manufacturers include various Allen-head wrenches and the lubricants needed to complete their kits...

SPEED CONTROL BASICS
many electric-powered kits come with mechanical speed controls. They're simple, switching devices that are worked by a separate servo to provide a range of forward speeds (usually three), as well as a reverse function to allow you to back your car out of trouble. Mechanical speed controls perform well enough, and because they're inexpensive and included with many entry-level kits, they allow beginners to get up and running with a smaller investment.
When you've gained some experience with your new R/C vehicle, you may wish to upgrade to an electronic speed control (ESC). This self-contained, electronic switching device replaces the mechanical unit and its additional servo. You'll find that an ESC allows much more precise throttle control, requires no maintenance, operates more efficiently, and saves both weight and space on your car's chassis. There are many ESCs available from expensive, full racing versions to economical ones that may have reverse. Whichever you consider, you should match your speed-control purchase to the type of RC activity in which you participate and the size of your budget.

NITRO VEHICLES
1/10 scale Stadium trucks: Nitro stadium trucks appear identical to electric stadium trucks, but use a .12 cubic-inch displacement engine for power instead of an electric motor. They're good for racing or play, and average about 30mph for top speed. For use on or off road.
1/10 scale Touring cars: nitro tourers may use .12 or .15 power plants, and can be very fast indeed up to 55mph. As with electric tourers, nitro tourers feature 4WD and realistic body lines. For on road use only.
1/8 scale Monster trucks: These giants feature large .21 engines that make a lot of horsepower. As a result, nitro monsters are fast (about 40mph) and can plow over or through just about anything! For use on or off road. 1/8 scale Buggies: Like the other 1/8 scale machines, these vehicles are powered by .21 engines. Buggies can go just about anywhere, are very tough, and top out close to 60mph. For use on- or off-road.
1/8 scale On-road cars: The cutting edge of RC performance! Top speeds of the .21-powered cars approach 80mph and shifting 2- or 3-speed transmissions are standard. Foam tires provide super grip, but wear quickly, and these machines are strictly for smooth road coursesnot for the inexperienced.

GETTING STARTED WITH ENGINE-POWERED MODELS
Nitro-powered models also require a radio system and basic tools for assembly, and have some additional specific needs of their own. Remember to ask about the following when you're in the hobby shop!

RECEIVER BATTERY:
Unlike electric-powered models, which use the on-board battery that powers the motor to also power the receiver and servos, a nitro-powered model requires a separate battery to power the on-board radio gear. Most radio systems include a holder for 4 "AA" batteries to do the job, but replacing batteries can get expensive. Most modelers use a rechargeable receiver battery instead, which requires a charger. Although more expensive up front, a rechargeable receiver pack and charger will save you money in the long run (even not-so-long run).

GLOW-PLUG IGNITER
this heats the engine's glow plug (the equivalent of a spark plug is a full-scale car) so that the fuel in the combustion chamber can ignite and cause the engine to run. Once running, the heat of combustion keeps the glow plug hot, and the glow-plug igniter is removed.

ELECTRIC STARTER
Most entry-level and "play" kits include pull-starters (just like a lawn mower), and do not require an electric starter. But for those that don't have a pull-starter, you'll need either a hand-held, 12V starter or an electric starter box. Both types of starter have spinning, rubber wheels that, when placed against the engine's flywheel, cause the engine's crankshaft to rotate and fire the engine into life.

NITRO FUEL
although often referred to as "gas powered", nitro models DO NOT run on gasoline. RC fuel is a mixture of nitromethane and synthetic or castor oil lubricants. It is flammable and should be treated with care, but it is not nearly as volatile as gasoline. Never attempt to use gasoline in a nitro engine!

FUEL BOTTLE
this is simply a small, squeezable bottle with a long neck that makes it easier to fill your models gas tank. Pouring fuel into a tiny tank opening from a full gallon jug of fuel invariably leads to mess and waste!

READY-TO-RUN MODELS
are you interested in RC, but the prospect of building the kit yourself has you concerned Fear not! Many of the popular RC car manufacturers offer assembled versions of their nitro- and electric-powered kits that are completely ready to run (RTR), which substantially cuts down on the time it takes to go from box to track. You get the convenience of a "toy" RC car, with the quality and performance of a hobby-quality kit. With an RTR, you can be ready for wild RC action in an hour or less. If you buy an RTR, be sure to save the instruction manual, because it will be invaluable if you have to make repairs.

Everyone you seem to ask has a different opinion of what type of fuel to use. No fuel is ideal for every application or is it a fact that a higher percentage of nitro results in better all Series performance. The correct percentage of nitro in a fuel and its effects on engine performance are rather complex issues due to the many variables as in climate, humidity and glow plugs used. To understand how nitro content affects engine performance, it helps to have a little basic understanding of nitro.

Nitro methane is a monopropellant which means it can burn in the absence of air. Nitro Methane contains nitrogen and oxygen, which provides more "fuel" for the combustion process The oxygen contained in nitro methane is released during the combustion process allowing richer needle settings that pack more fuel in the combustion chamber. More fuel plus more air potentially equals more horsepower when engines are designed to run on fuels containing nitro methane or the amount of nitro methane that you run.

There are a great deal more technical aspects to Nitro Methane, but this explains why you can produce more power with it.

Now running more nitro does not always mean more horsepower, the engine has to be designed to run the amount of nitro methane you intend to use. Running 30% nitro fuel in an engine designed for low to no nitro methane content, will not yield anything but poor, hot running engine characteristics. Using 0% nitro fuel in an engine designed for 20% or higher nitro will yield equally poor running engine characteristics.

RC cars and trucks with engine sizes .12 >.18 usually use 10%-20% nitro content fuel with 8%-16% oil content. It is hard for one person to tell you which fuel to use for your particular vehicle due the varying conditions of your surSeriesing area. If you wish to find out what really works, go down to your local track to see what everyone uses, that's the easiest way. RC cars and trucks with engines from .21 >.27 typically use more nitro content. The common range is from 20%-40% and aSeries 8%-18% oil content. Fuels have different oils, and at different altitudes their flash points are different, so some people say a particular fuel is good, but for someone else it is not. It is mostly trial and error for which fuel will run best for your liking

Ziploc air-filter holder
Pick up a few spare air-filter elements and store them in a Ziploc bag. Pour air-filter lube into the bag, and you'll always have filters ready when you go racing. The oil wont leak out, so you won't end up with a mess in your toolbox. Use the bag only to store clean, lubed filters.

High-capacity glow igniter
Add a cell to your glow igniter to double its capacity. You?ll need to do some grinding and soldering, but the results will be worth it. Solder the cells in parallel, as shown, and use Shoe-Goo to glue them together. Two 3300 cells wired in parallel will provide 6600mAh. Thats enough to last for weeks of racing.

Jewel-box crystal case
Here's a clever way to keep your crystals safe and organized. Take a CD jewel case and remove the section that held the CD. Next, use a hobby knife to cut out small squares of thin foam rubber (toolbox drawer liners work great) as shown. A typical jewel case can easily hold 35 crystals.

Easy decal application
When installing large decals, use the decal's paper backing as a handle, as shown. You can also use the backing to burnish the decal after you've applied it.

No-mess diff-ball greasing
Cut a slit in the bag that the diff balls came in, and then squeeze diff grease into the bag. Work the grease aSeries the balls, and then remove them one at a time as you build your diff. The greased diff balls will stick to the tip of a hobby-knife blade, and installing them in the diff-gear holes will be much easier.

Cheap exhaust-tip plug
To prevent oil and fuel from spilling out, use a foam earplug as an exhaust-tip plug. Push it into the exhaust tip after you've finished running your vehicle for the day, and you won't have to worry about spilling fuel and oil and making a mess.

Revo air scoop
Here's a great tip for Revo owners. The stock Revo body has an air scoop molded in its left side, and you can open it to provide additional engine cooling. Start the hole with a tapered reamer, and then enlarge it with a sanding-drum-equipped Dermal.

Fuel-tubing shock bushing
If you lose the plastic or metal shock bushing in the shock cap, substitute a 3mm slice of fuel tubing.

Revive your Dermal tool bits
Dermal sanding drums and tool bits can easily become glazed and dulled with normal use, especially if you grind a lot of plastic and Lexan. These materials melt quite easily from the friction of the sanding, and that can leave a mess of melted plastic on the drum. I've seen racers throw away those bits, and that is a waste. You can usually bring a Dermal bit back to life by grinding the surface with a diamond-faced file (available at most hardware stores). Install the bit on the Dermal, and spin it at 3/4 speed. Use the file to remove the glazed-over sections or melted plastic.

T-Maxx simplified shock mounting
The front and rear inboard-mounted shocks on Traxxas trucks can be a pain to remove because of the difficult-to-access shoulder screws that secure them to the tower. To change this, install the shocks with Team Associated Monster GT shock-mounting hardware (item no. 25070) instead of the eight shoulder screws that came with the truck. You'll have to drill the shock-mounting screw holes all the way through the shock tower with a 3mm drill bit (or one of a similar size) so a pair of inboard and outboard shocks can be mounted to the shock tower with a single screw and nut. This mod significantly simplifies shock mounting

Secure antenna routing
The antenna leads on most 75MHz receivers are longer than the antenna tubes that are provided with most RTRs. Extra wire sticking out of the antenna tube not only looks hack, it also exposes the antenna to damage. For a cleaner and more secure installation, cut 2mm off the open end of the rubber antenna cap, feed the antenna lead through the tube, and secure the extra wire to the outside of the antenna tube with the ring that you just cut. Then slide the end cap over the tip of the antenna.

Better receiver seal
Dirt that accumulates inside your receiver can cause glitching. Open your receiver's case, shake out the dirt, and then close it. Seal the receiver case's seam with tape. Also cover the unused third channel or battery slot (if you run an electric car) with a clear piece of decal material or tape. This tip is also good for speed controls; you'd be surprised how much dirt can get in through the setup-button opening.

More secure preload adjusters
Threaded-body shocks are very cool and easy to adjust, but the preload collars on some of those shocks have a tendency to ?drift? and change the preload setting while you?re driving. Install preload clips above the knurled preload adjusters to prevent the collars from moving and changing your settings.

Long-lasting glow-plug starter
Nothing beats the convenience of a rechargeable glow-starter, unless you forget to charge it. As a backup, keep a 1.5V lantern battery and model-airplane-type ?remote? glow starter in your pit bag. The glow starter clips to the battery with alligator clips, and one lantern battery can easily last a full six months of weekend racing.

Vent for better handling
The vent holes drilled into most monster truck rims are too small, so they don't allow the air to vent out fast enough when the vehicle lands from a jump or runs over obstacles. This can cause the tires to bounce excessively when going over bumps (instead of absorbing the impacts), which leads to erratic handling. Enlarging the holes slightly or drilling a few more similar size air-vent holes will help the air escape faster, and that will improve your truck's handling. A tapered reamer works great for enlarging the vent holes in the plastic rims.

Magnetized parts bowl
There's nothing worse than losing a screw, E-clip, or other small metal part when you're wrenching on your car, so Matthew uses a magnetized parts bowl from Sears to hold small parts when he works on his gear. Make your own magnetized bowl in any size by adding a stick-on magnet (available from the craft store) to the bottom of any metal container. You can also use the magnetic container to find lost parts when working over a carpeted floor. Just slide the magnetic base over the carpet until it grabs the missing item.

Improved fuel-tank lid seal
The quick-fill caps on some fuel tanks won't close or seal completely when the rubber O-ring inside the cap is new or just dry. Some lids are adjustable; if yours isn't, apply a little grease to the O-ring to allow the cap to close completely and provide a better seal.

Nickel-and-dime ride-height gauge
Forgot your ride-height gauge? No problem; you can use the change in your pocket to adjust your touring car?s ride height. For asphalt, most racers set up their cars with a 5mm ride height. A stack of three quarters or four dimes equals 5mm. Set up the stack of coins, and lower or raise the ride height until the chassis just grazes the coins as it rolls over them.

No more E-clips
Instead of relying only on E-clips to keep your car's hinge pins in place, add a 4-40 setscrew for extra security. To do this, drill a hole in the arm mount or hub carrier (whichever part has more 'meat') so the setscrew will intersect the hinge pin bore, and drill the hole slightly smaller than the setscrew so it will thread properly. Next, grind a flat spot on the hinge pin where the setscrew pinches it, and assemble the parts so the setscrew tightens against the flat. No more lost hinge pins!

Q-Tips tips
Cotton swabs are a great addition to your toolbox. You can use them to clean hard-to-reach areas on your car, like aSeries the base of the carburetor and between wheel spokes. They?re also great for cleaning out brush hoods and applying comm drops.

Electric toothbrush parts cleaner
Here's another great tip from Justin: use an old electric toothbrush to clean RC parts. The rotating bristles clean off the tough-to-remove stains on tuned pipes and other parts that have built-up fuel and dirt. Spray a little WD-40 onto the bristles and make suspension arms and other plastic parts look like new. Justin Scheller - San Juan
Capistrano, CA

Easy-access camber adjustment
Dish wheels look great, but they make adjusting camber on vehicles with pivot-ball suspensions impossible; you have to remove them. Using a tapered reamer, make a hole that allows you to pass a hex wrench through the wheel and access the pivot balls to make quick and easy camber adjustments.

Easier ball-diff building
Tired of dropping those tiny differential balls? Use the tube of diff grease to pick up the balls. Just squeeze a dab out onto the tip, and use the sticky stuff to pick up each diff ball and put it into its hole in the diff gear. David Andrews - Ripon, UK

Bubble-wrap tire inserts
When a monster truck's foam inserts get wet, the tires wobble badly. Bubble wrap?the type used for packing?works well as tire inserts and doesn't absorb moisture as foam does. Use the 'smaller' bubble wrap, and layer it over the rims. It takes a little effort to make it fit properly, but it's well worth the minor hassle. D. Clark - Chicago, IL

Clean with agitation
Electric jewelry cleaners are great for cleaning small parts such as bearings and clutch components. The vibrating action works well to remove dirt and built-up gunk. The basket holds the parts and keeps them away from the dirt that falls to the bottom. For best results, fill the trough with jewelry cleaner or WD-40. Justin Scheller -
San Juan Capistrano, CA

Neatness counts
Instead of using nylon zip-ties that have to be cut and replaced when you need to do maintenance, use the plastic bindings that are used on small booklets. You can buy them at a stationery store. Simply cut them to the length you need and glue them into the chassis. You'll now easily be able to add or remove wires.

Secure your servos
Run rubber grommets on your nitro vehicle's servos. They will reduce the likelihood of damage to the case ears, they'll decrease vibration, and they'll also help to prevent glitching.

Do-it-yourself deep-dish TC wheels
You can easily make your own deep-dish, wide-offset touring car wheels by cutting the mounting flange off the back of the wheel and then gluing the flange to the front of the wheel. Be sure to sand the flange and the wheel before you glue them together. The wheels will look cool, and they'll give your car a slightly wider track.

Protective-film body repair
Associated's clear protective film (item no. 6312) also works great to repair cracks and holes in Lexan bodies. Just cut a piece out and stick it on the crack in the body. The film will last a long time, and one sheet can be used to repair many bodies.

Protect your antenna wire
Most clamp-type antenna tubes will fray the antenna wires where they go through the slot in the clamp and wear against the sharp metal edges. This can lead to a damaged receiver wire and glitching. Run an O-ring beneath and above the wires to protect your antenna wires and avoid this problem.

Increase rear down force
If your touring car feels a little loose, you can enlarge the surface area of the rear wing with a strip of scrap Lexan. Cut a piece of Lexan that's the same length as the wing, and attach it to the end of the wing with double-sided tape. Trim the strip's height to adjust down force.

Prevent clutch slippage
After rebuilding a new clutch and replacing the bearings, clean the grease out of the rear bearing (closest to the clutch) with motor spray. Also, blow out the bearing with an air compressor if you can. This will greatly reduce the life of that bearing, but it will prevent the clutch from slipping because the grease was thrown out of the bearing during the first few tanks after you replaced it.

Free parts tray
Once washed thoroughly, the foam trays used for packaging meat work great for holding small parts when you work on your cars. They prevent the small parts from rolling aSeries, and you can stick the screws into the foam to keep them in any order you want, so you'll remember their installation order. Gary Nelson Chillicothe, OH

Foam toolbox liners
High-density foam works great for lining your toolbox drawers. The lining will protect your tools, parts, or whatever else you keep in your toolbox during transportation. Cut the foam to size, and install a piece in each compartment. Pick up big sheets of high-density foam at a hardware store or at Wal-Mart for less than $5 per sheet.Sylvain Lacroix Manchester, NH

Cheap and effective circle cutter
You can make a circle cutter from a 99-cent school-supply compass and a no. 11 hobby knife. Install the hobby knife in the clamp where you would normally put a pencil. Pass a screw through the graduated scale, and secure the screw with a nut on the other side. Once you have the compass set to the desired radius, tighten the nut to hold the setting while you cut. Perfect for cutting out cooling holes on bodies. Kevin Tuazon Granada Hills, CA

Zenoah pull-starter protector
The pull-start housings on Zenoah and other similar gasoline engines have intake vents that feed air to the internal cooling fan. Unfortunately, these vents can suck in small objects such as rocks and leaves that may clog the intake, or worse, damage the pull-start mechanism and cooling fan. The best solution is to apply mesh window screen (available at most hardware stores) to the inside of the pull-start housing to prevent objects from entering. Use Pacers' Zap-a-Dap-a-Goo to glue the screen in place. Michael Lawlor Dingmans Ferry, PA

GENERAL RULES
Work in progress, some rules may or may not apply based on event.
Wichita R/C Raceway Inc. has the right to enforce rules based on conditions.

Intermediate Class Rules
You cannot run in Intermediate if any of the following applies.
#1. You have a chassis sponsorship from a manufacturer or distributor. It does not matter what percentage the sponsorship is.
#2. You have raced in the Expert version of the class you are registering for in any Series Division event.

Any Intermediate driver that finishes in the top 3 in any Division will be required to move up to the Expert class the following year. Any driver finishing 4th or 5th in two years not consecutively will be required to move up to Expert. Furthermore anyone finishing in the top 10 nationally in an Intermediate class will be required to bump up to expert.

1: All General rules and procedures in this book apply to all classes within WRCRW. Contradictions may occur within these rules by another rule in a specific class.

2: No person attending an WRCRW event will have any claim for damages, expenses, lawsuits, or otherwise against a promoter, track operator, WRCRW, its officials, agents, or employees, resulting from any damage to any car, personal injury, or monetary loss of any kind whatsoever. All attendants waive any claim they may have against a promoter, track operator, or WRCRW, when they participate in any event being run under these rules.

3: Any driver, or pit crew, is required to wear closed toe shoes at all times while in the racing area.

4: Drivers meetings prior to each event is mandatory. Rules, procedures, and race formats will be discussed during this meeting. A one-lap penalty may be assed to any driver who does not attend the meeting.

5: Registered drivers are the only ones who are allowed to compete under that name. In other words, drivers cannot have stand in drivers for them for any reason.

6: All drivers are responsible for the actions of his pit crew.

7: Any driver who is disqualified is required to leave the racing facility. There will be no refund of entry fees to a disqualified racer.

9: Any of the following actions by a driver or his pit crew will result in
Disqualification from the event:
a: Using non-authorized FCC frequency.

b: Not reporting to the announcers booth or inspection area when asked to do so.

c: Operating a car near the track that endangers others, or while a race is going on.

d: Taking part in a protest demonstration at any time anywhere on the racing premises.

e Entering scoring areas or restricted areas without permission.

f: Assaulting another individual.

g: Turning on a radio during a race with the purpose of harming another drivers race.

10: The following may result in disqualification if the race director so sees fit:
a: Using any parts that do not comply with the rules.

b: Using improper language or actions with a race director.

c: Using a non-assigned frequency.

d: Allowing individuals to substitute for you in a race.

e: going the wrong direction on track or ignoring starting gate rules.

f: Rough driving or intentional hacking.
11: Race Officials must witness and bring to the attention of the driver
before a penalty can be assessed. Track infractions may or may not be announced during the race.

12: A driver that has been disqualified or penalized can protest the decision of the Race Director to a designated WRCRW Official at the event. The final decision will be made by the highest-ranking WRCRW official.

13: If a driver is being protested and does not make his car available for inspection, will automatically be disqualified.

14: In qualifying protests can only be made by a driver in the same class. In the main events protests can only be made by a driver in the same main. A protest must be in writing and must be accompanied by a $30 fee per protest. Protests must be given to the Race Director within ten minutes of the race being protested.

15: Unruly or unsportsmanlike conduct will not be tolerated. Individuals who cause any disturbance may be disqualified and removed by the race director if he/she so sees fit.

16: Race Directors have the right to refuse any entry for valid reason.

17: The race director may inspect any car at any time if for any reason there is a hazardous situation suspected.

RACING AND PRACTICING CONDITIONS

18: Drivers are not allowed to drive or operate their cars inside, or outside the racing area while races are being held to prevent frequency conflicts while races are being run.

19: A person, or another car may not push Cars across the finish line. Cars must cross the finish line under their own power. A drivers official time will be the total laps completed by his vehicle and the total time elapsed from the starting time until the vehicle crosses the finish line on the final lap. If the final lap is not completed, the driver will be credited with the number of full laps finished and the time for those laps.

20: The driver is scored, and not the car. A driver must race the car teched and he used to qualify with. Drivers or cars may not be changed during qualifying or a main event.

21: Any material used to add weight to a car must be securely fastened. If this weight falls off during the coarse of a race, that car may be disqualified.

22: Before any driver is allowed onto the track, they must check in with the race officials and give them the drivers frequencies. The frequency board is to be used at all practices (Place a pin on the frequency of the drivers radio, remove pin after radio is turned off.) A ten minute time limit is to be enforced for drivers using the same frequency. During race events any changes in frequencies must be immediately reported to the race director.

23: Broken cars are to be removed from the track as soon as possible. Work on the cars by corner marshals is not allowed under any circumstance. If a car is broken then fixed by pit crew, it must be restarted from pit lane.

24: Any driver who is demonstrating rough driving, unsportsmanship, or is hazardous to other cars and or people will be immediately black-flagged and may be disqualified from the event.

25: If you receive a black flag during a race, you must immediately pull your car off the racing surface in a safe manner. Again failure to do so may result in disqualification.

26: A black flag ruling may also be used at any time for abusive language to other drivers or race officials.

27: In certain cases, warnings may be given. If any driver receives three warnings that will result in an automatic black flag.

28: Any driver that does not have complete control over his vehicle must immediately pull his car off the racing surface.

29: Any car that loses its body must pull off the track until a pit crew can secure the body back onto the car.

30: A driver practicing must have the appropriate frequency clip on his radio. Frequency clips are not allowed for any reason in the pit area and must stay inside the racing area.

31: Drivers must use assigned frequency. The Race Director or a race official must approve any frequency change.

32: If there are more than six drivers on 27 MHz in a main, the slowest will have to change to 75 MHz to compete in that main event.
A driver who cannot or will not change will be forced to forfeit his right to run his main event.

33: In case of a frequency conflict, the driver with the lowest amount of points, or highest qualified driver, has first choice.

EQUIPMENT RULES AND REGULATIONS

34: Radios used in WRCRW competition are limited to the following channels:

27 MHzChannels
1 through 6

75 MHzChannels
61 through 90
2.4 GHz systems

35: All radios must conform to FCC rules.

36: Radios must have the ability to change frequencies. At least two sets of frequencies is required to attend WRCRW events

37: Radios voltage is to be limited to the manufactures specifications. External transmitter battery packs are not allowed.

38: Any radios operating more than two channels are not allowed (Except for in the Monster Truck Classes). More than one function is allowed per device, but a servo is limited to one output shaft. Reverse in competition is not allowed.

39: All race vehicles must be within the determined weight, height, and length requirements for each WRCRW approved class found in this rulebook.

40: The use of traction control sensing devices, active suspension devices, and steering control are not allowed.

41: Antennas must be flexible. Roll-over antennas are not allowed.

42: 2 or 3 speed transmissions are not allowed (Except for in the Monster Truck Classes).

43: No hazardous or harmful material may be protruding anywhere off of any racecar.

44: Any engine that is protested may only be torn down and inspected at the
end of the race.

45: Any wheel manufactured for competition may be used as long as it meets the class
specs. Wheels must be securely mounted to the vehicle at all times. Axles may not protrude more than 1/16" beyond the outer edge of the tire.

46: The wheel measurement is as follows:

Mounting bead:
this measurement is taken at the point where the tire bead meets the wheel.

Maximum wheel diameter:
this is measured at the widest portion of the wheel.

47. Tires must be of one piece in circumference. No sectioning or piecing tires together. No spikes, tubes, or additional items to be glued to the outside of tires or passed through from the inside. Sidewall lettering colors allowed. Only tires manufactured for a specific class may be used. Must be rubber only and available as a tire for that class. No tires created for other vehicle types even if they fit the specifications will be allowed. Cutting or modifying the tread is allowed. Modifying the tire carcass in anyway is prohibited.

48: Fuels may contain only methanol, nitro methane, and a lubricant. Following additives are specifically prohibited:

Hydrazine, hydrogen peroxide, propylene oxide, and toluene.

49: Fuel tanks are to be securely mounted.

50: Any carburetor may be used as long as long as they fit inside the specifications for that class. Restrictors are allowed as long as they are securely fastened in place. Throttle return springs are required on all vehicles.

51: Any type of bearings may be used.

52: No crimping of pipe outlet is allowed. See outlet size under engine spec rules. In case of damaged outlet pipe, the race director must approve repairs before the pipe can be used, and must still fit within the specs.

53: Brakes in working condition on all cars is mandatory. Cars should be able to sit still with the engine still running, while the brakes are applied.

54: Exhaust pipes are also required on every car. The maximum sound level is 85 decibels, measured at a ninety degree angle to the side of the car from a distance of 30 feet, 3 feet above the gSeries, with the car at maximum throttle and at all speeds.

55: Mufflers must be Series in shape and have a 90-degree end.

56: An industrial quality digital caliper will be used to check all engine specifications.

57: A car that loses its exhaust pipe will be black-flagged.

58: Variable exhaust timing, porting, or exhaust pipes with moveable parts are not allowed.

59: Hydraulics of any kind are not allowed.

60: All engines must be available through hobby shops.

: Ceramic parts (piston and rod) are not allowed.

61: .12 Engine Specs:

Max. Displacement for .12 size = .129 ci., for .21 size = .214 ci.
Max. carb bore for 12 = 5.5mm, for 21 = no limit.
Max. Crankshaft gas passage diameter for 12 size = 7.0mm, for 21 = no limit
Max. Internal ports for 12 size = 4, for 21 size no limit.
Max. Muffler outlet pipe bore for 12 size = 5mm, for 21 size = 8mm
Min. muffler outlet pipe length for 12 size = 15mm, for 21 size = 15mm

Monster Truck
Scale - 1/10-1/8
Description:
To be a Monster Truck, the lowest point of the engine must sit at least 1.5" inches above the lowest point along the front-back centerline when compressed (usually the "skid plates").
To tech questionable MTs, remove the wheels, place MT on flat surface, compress the vehicle fully and a ruler (or 1.5" gauge) could be used vertically to measure the engine above the surface. No flat chassis (1/8 buggy style).
The following trucks are examples that fit within the above definition: T (and S) -Maxxes, Savage, MGT, Revo, TNX/TC, and LST providing no modifications have been made to make the vehicle not meet the Monster Truck rules.

Minimum track width - - - - - - - - - - - - - Continuous 10 feet (same as 8th scales)
Wheel base - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Minimum 12 inches
Wheelbase -------------------------------------- Maximum 16 inches
Vehicle width maximum ---------- outside tire to outside tire ----------- 19.5 inches
Transmission - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Must be multi speed gear reduction. Diffs inside the transmission are allowed only. Front and rear brakes allowed.
Engine - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - .12ci to .28c
Carb ------------------------------------------------- No size restriction. Carb must mount securely to the motor.
Exhaust ------------------------------------------- Pipes must meet the 85 decibel limit and have no movable parts in them.
Minimum weight - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - .12ci to .20.999ci Small blocks: 7lbs. 6 oz.minimum weight.
.21 to .28 Big blocks: 4300 grams (~9.5 pounds) minimum weight
Maximum weight for the safety of turn marshals ------------------- 13 pounds 6 ounces
Fuel Tanks - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Single fuel tanks only.
Fuel Tank Volume Rule ----------------- Based on motor size. .20999 or less will be limited to a maximum of 150mililitres/cc ------------- .21 and over is limited to a maximum of 175mililitres/cc. This includes fuel line from tank to carb and filter(s).
Bodies - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Truck or SUV (no buggy or car bodies allowed )
Bumpers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Bumpers are optional. If used, must not extend further than 1" past the body on the front and rear.
Rear Spoiler/wing - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - A spoiler/wing is optional.
Skid Plates - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Skid Plates must not extend further than 1" past the body on the front and rear.
Wheels --------------------------------------------- Must be manufactured for Monster Trucks.
Wheel Mounting -------------------------------- Wheel mounting - Must be securely mounted at all times.
Tires - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Must be rubber only. No tires created for other vehicle types even if they fit the specifications will be allowed. Cutting or modifying the tread is allowed. Modifying the tire carcass by sectioning or narrowing is prohibited. Due to the varying sizes of wheels available for Monster Trucks it IS legal to trim the mounting bead of a tire produced for the Monster Truck class to make it fit a Monster Truck rim. Example - Bowtie on a REVO wheel. All tire measurements reference the carcass dimensions and does not include the tread depth or width.
Tire diameter- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Minimum - 5.1" (mounted)
Tire width - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Minimum - 2.75"(mounted)
Race lengths- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Qualifiers - 5 to 10 minutes, Main events - 15 to 60 minutes

NOTES:
1. All Standard MT's will run in the same class. Big block/small block is no longer an issue, larger displacement engines have a heavier minimum weight to compensate.
2. If a truck is modified so it does not fit these rules it must run in the Arena Truck Class. The WRCRW official will make the final decision.

Arena Truck Class
Scale -1/8
Description:
Any Monster Truck that does not 100% meet the MONSTER TRUCK specifications while still meeting the below guidelines will run in the Arena Truck Class.
Minimum track width - - - - - - - - - - - - - Continuous 10 feet (same as 8th scales)
Wheel base - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Minimum 12 inches
Wheelbase -------------------------------------- Maximum 16 inches
Vehicle width maximum ---------- outside tire to outside tire ----------- 19.5 inches
Transmission/diff - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Single speed direct drive (1/8 buggy) style driveline only.
Engine - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - .12ci to .28ci
Carb ------------------------------------------------- No size restriction. Carb must mount securely to the motor.
Exhaust ------------------------------------------- Pipes must meet the 85 decibel limit and have no movable parts in them.
Minimum weight - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 7lbs. 6 oz. minimum weight
Maximum weight for the safety of turn marshals ------------------- 13 pounds 6 ounces
Fuel Tanks - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Single fuel tanks only no more than 150mililitres/cc. This includes fuel line from tank to carb and filter(s).
Bodies - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Truck or SUV (no buggy or car bodies allowed )
Bumpers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Bumpers are optional. If used, must not extend further than 1" past the body on the front and rear.
Rear Spoiler/Wing - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - A spoiler/wing is optional.
Skid Plates - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Skid Plates must not extend further than 1" past the body on the front and rear.
Wheels --------------------------------------------- Must be manufactured for Monster Trucks.
Wheel Mounting -------------------------------- Wheel mounting - Must be securely mounted at all times.
Tires - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Must be rubber only. No tires created for other vehicle types even if they fit the specifications will be allowed. Cutting or modifying the tread is allowed. Modifying the tire carcass by sectioning or narrowing is prohibited. Due to the varying sizes of wheels available for Monster Trucks it IS legal to trim the mounting bead of a tire produced for the Monster Truck class to make it fit a Monster Truck rim. Example - Bowtie on a REVO wheel. All tire measurements reference the carcass dimensions and does not include the tread depth or width.
Tire diameter- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Minimum - 4.55" (mounted)
Tire width - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Minimum - 2.25"(mounted)
The Panther LP is referenced for this size and will be the absolute smallest tire legal.
Race lengths- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Qualifiers - 5 to 10 minutes, Main events - 15 to 60 minutes

NOTES:
1) There will be an expert and Intermediate Arena Truck class. If a racer runs in the expert 1/8 class he/she must run in the expert Arena class.

1/10 FUEL 2WD OFF-ROAD TRUCK SPECS
All trucks must be 2wd.
Maximum truck length - 18
Maximum truck width - 13
Truck wheel base - Minimum - 9 Maximum - 11.5
Minimum Truck weight - 2WD - 60 ounces = 3lbs. 12oz.
Truck wheel diameter - Minimum-mounting bead - 2.175 Maximum mounting bead 2.25" Maximum overall - 2.46
Wheel mounting - Must be securely mounted at all times.
Maximum Truck wheel width - 2
Truck tire width - Minimum - 2" Maximum - 2.125
Minimum Truck tire diameter - 3.6
Wheel cut out - Use body cut lines
Engine - .12 . This year a .15 RTR is legal. This is an effort to help grow this class due to the number of RTR Gas Trucks that come with a .15.
Fuel - Maximum allowed 75 milliliters/cc for the tank, filter(s) and fuel line from tank to carb.
Transmission - 1 speed only - viscous or slipper drivers are allowed
Rear suspension  Independent
Main events - 5 to 60 Minutes
Bodies - Off-road Truck
Tires - Rubber only

1/8 FUEL OFF-ROAD SPECS
Minimum track width - continuous 10 feet
Maximum Buggy length - 28.74 (730mm)
Maximum Buggy width - 12.2 (310mm)
Maximum Buggy height - 9.84 (250mm)
Buggy wheel base - Minimum - 10.8 (270mm) Maximum - 13.2 (330mm)
Minimum weight - 112.9 ounces (3.2 kilos) 7lbs .9 oz.
Wheel diameter - Minimum - 3.2 (81.28) Maximum - 3.4 (86.36mm)
Wheel mounting - Must be securely mounted at all times.
Maximum wheel width - 1.75 (44.45mm)
Tire diameter - Minimum - 4.3 (109.22mm) Maximum - 4.7 (119.38mm)
Maximum tire width - 1.85 (46.99mm)
Engine - .21 only
Fuel - Maximum 125 milliliters/cc includes tank, filter's) and fuel line from tank to carb.
Transmission - 1 speed only
Rear suspension  Independent
Main events - 5 to 60 Minutes
Bodies - Buggy or other off-road style body that resembles an actual off-road racing vehicle
Tires - Rubber only

Notes - Maximum height is measured with suspension fully compressed

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