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The track is located in Emery Park; 2339 E Macarthur Rd Wichita, KS 67216
Wichita R/C Raceway, Inc. is a non-profit Kansas organization that is made possible by donations of time, monies, and materials from volunteers, members, and businesses of our community.
We are proud to offer back to our community a family environment for R/C car and truck enthusiasts to enjoy the hobby
During any of our events anyone can participate and you need not be a member of our organization although it is encouraged.
Your donations are what makes this facility possible, although it is located in a public park it is strictly up to membership, entry fees, donations, and volunteers to keep the facility active. It is also very important to have R/C car and truck enthusiast come out and use the track as with out an interest there's no need for a track.
Our goal is to construct and maintain a public radio controlled car park. This park will provide a safe and structured environment for children and adults alike to operate their radio controlled cars.
We are soliciting funding from the City of Wichita, local businesses, and hobby manufacturers. All funding and materials will be used for construction and maintenance of the facility.
In 2003 the idea of having a remote control track in the Wichita area was developed, with research, and a business plan in hand we approached the City of Wichita. After meeting several times and acquiring the 501(c) and other items required the track was approved.
Construction started in 2004, by August we had our first race. We used a generator to power pumps that pump water from the pond to keep the track damp and to power the laptop. We used car numbers to identify cars as they crossed the finish line and manually counted each one, by entering them into the computer.
In 2005 we managed to get an electric meter put in and run a water line from the main. We borrowed a small camper to use as an announcer booth of sorts till we found a camper of our own. By August of 2005 we built a more permanent structure for the announcer’s booth and acquired an AMBrc system for counting cars.
In 2006 we add to the watering system by installing sprinkler heads around the track to aid in keeping the track damp. Electric was run to several areas to accommodate driver’s needs for electric. A new starting gate was also built.
In 2007 we added some temporary lighting and made some minor changes to the facility for better safety for participants and spectators. November 1st we started the rough in for the 2008 track layout which should be done by the end of February
In 2008 we hosted the 2008 Kansas Pro Series Finals September 27Th, made a few improvements to the facilities look and feel, acquired three sets of bleachers from WRCC for spectators, and received roughly thirty tons of a clay mix material from the city of Wichita for track improvements. We will be utilizing this material for the 2009 layout. The season ended early do to weather and participants.
We are currently accepting sponsorships. For a small tax deductible donation of $250 you could have a sign up to 2'x3' displayed during race events. If you cannot provide a sign or banner up to 2'x3' we will require a $325 minimum donation to cover the cost of labor and materials.
All sponsors, will also receive a link on the sponsor page. If you are interested in becoming a sponsor or if you need more information please contact
us: Our sincere THANKS goes out to all Sponsors.
Wichita RC Raceway is a non-profit corporation incorporated under the laws of Kansas. It is exempt from federal tax under Internal Revenue Code 501(c)(3). Contributions to Wichita RC Raceway are tax deductible.
The following items would greatly improve the ability to maintain the track and or add to the enjoyment of coming to the track.
Wichita R/C Raceway is a non-profit corporation and your donation may be tax deductible receipts will be provided if needed. All money and hard good donations go back into the track. If you have or know of someone who may have one or more of the items please contact one of the track managers or talk to that person and ask them to consider a donation to the track. We cannot accept items on borrowed terms due to the potential for theft and or vandalism that the track has endured
All items will become the property of Wichita R/C Raceway. All items will be accessible to track maintenance volunteers. For a complete list of projects see our project list Small hand tools and supplies
7/8 ID garden hose
Weather proof our door 8 ohm loud speakers for sound system
Large items Small lawn tractor must be in running condition and be at least 10 horsepower. It is not necessary that the cutting deck works. It will be used to drag the track lanes and pull small cart for moving dirt and materials.
Yard Sweep type pulled behind lawn tractor to be used to broom track.
Clay type soil (as much as possible) Up to 1000 feet of 4 inch drain tile (Track border) Up to 1000 feet of PVC pipe (Track border) Up to 200 feet of 12x12' Hardy Plank siding
Misc Extra Heavy Vandal proof steel BBQ grill to permanently mount near track
Q: I am not a member, can I race at the members races and just pay entry fees
like a normal program or is this completely closed out to everyone that wasn't
and aren't current members?
A: Everyone is welcome to participate in our scheduled events even if you are
not a member.
Q: My question is can we only race one weekend a month without a membership? Or
do you guys have a something for out of state racers? Thanks, Paul
A: You can come race anytime, every weekend if you want. Don't need to be a
member. Membership is a donation that makes the track possible helps pay for
utilities and things. Members get their donation back in time because members
get a reduced gate fee.
Q: I wonder if you are welcoming electric rc out there at the track. I also was
wondering if you was or have a family membership out there. plz let me know as
soon as possible.
A: We race every thing, our policy is need min of 3 for class but if there isn't
3 than I give the option of you can race in a different class. point races are a
little stricter because there is prize money involved. Membership form is on
website "see Membership Tab"
Q: Do you send emails out to let people know when work days are. How do I know
when you are working on the track.
A: No the Wichita RC Raceway does not send emails, spamming people with email is
not what we are about. All direct emails to the WRCRW are answered though. We
rely on the I Can Help form to let people know of work schedules. Probably the
best thing to do is call or email for work day/time. Most things that need done
are of a command since thing so really any body should be able to tackle them.
for instance if your out playing around and see rocks on the track pick them
up. If there's trash laying around pick it up. The only thing that is strictly
not allowed is digging into the track, this causes drainage problems.
Q: Do you have to be a member to race at Wichita RC Raceway?
A: No everyone is welcome to come out and race.
Q: I read that the track was open to non members on Monday and Tuesday but the
gate was locked.
A: We try to leave the gate open on those days so everyone has a chance to enjoy
the facility. When we are doing work on things the gate may be locked. other
times it may be locked simply because no one has had the time to go unlock it,
we apologize for that but it is volunteers and some times we just don't have
time to get out and unlock the gate. For roughly 12 cents a day you can access
the track 98% of the time.
Q: Why do you have to be a member to use the track?
A: The track is a lease from the city and is built and maintained by volunteers
it is thru donations, memberships, and gate fees that fund the facility.
Q: Can I come race on member only races?
A: The Member races are to show appreciation for the membership donation and
volunteered time. If you would like to take part in Member races you can a
normal gate fees. Members have a gate pass for these races. They also receive
other
membership discounts please see the membership donation form.
Q: I heard the membership donation and entry fees are going up. Is this true and
when?
A: Do to rising cost of everything and the lack of volunteers to help with
maintenance we are looking at raising cost. At the current time the idea is for
those that have a current paid membership donation the renewal will remain the
same for the next race season. New membership donation will be increased. "This
increase is still being looked into, so for now the membership donation and
entry fees will remain the same"
Most people try to arrive at the track as early as possible. This lets them prepare their cars, test their equipment and get some practice before the race. This is also a great time to talk to the other drivers and get help with problems you might be having.
Don't be afraid to ask a more experienced racer to try out your vehicle. They may notice something in the handling you might have missed.
Before turning on your controller you will need to go to the frequency board and pin your frequency. If the frequency is already pinned it is in use, you will need to wait until the clip is removed. If two people try and use the same frequency at the same time they will not be able to control their vehicles.
Before the race starts a signup sheet will be made available and an announcement will be made. You will fill out the signup sheet (print clearly so there are no miss understandings with your information). Before the races starts the information will be entered into the race computer. If two people are singed up for the same class and have the same frequency a track official will work with the drivers to try and get one of them to a new frequency. A few minutes before the race starts an announcement will be made to come get your transponder and you will pass it over the loop to be sure it is working properly and you have the right one.
The race sheets will be posted. The race sheets shows who are in each race, the order of the races, everyone not in the first race needs to turn off all radios as soon as they can. Radios must remain off during the races when not being used for racing.
There will be an announcement made three minutes till the next race. At this time the racers in the first heat will pick up the transponder that you were assigned from the announcer’s booth then head to pit lane where you will securely attach the transponder and then start your car and head to the drivers stand.
The drivers can stand where ever they wish on the stand just remember to be courteous to the other drivers on the stand. The landing going up to the drivers stand is not to be used as a driving location it interrupts the view for other drivers.
We use an AMBrc system drivers with personal transponder will need to enter their transponder number so it can be added to their profile. We also have track transponders for those that do not have personals. Track transponders will require a deposit of a credit card, driver’s license, or 120.00 cash the deposit will be returned on return of the transponder in original working condition as when you borrowed it.
The drivers from the last race will walk on to the track and stand at designated points. They will be the turn marshals. If a vehicle gets stuck near them it is their job to get the vehicle back in the race as soon as possible, but in a safe manner. Just like driving, it takes practice to be a good marshal. When you marshal, watch your area of responsibility, not the race. For the first race the drivers from the last race on the schedule will marshal. If you are unable to marshal, or need the time to get repairs made, you can ask another racer to take your place but make sure it is approved with the track director. If you do not marshal or get a replacement you will be docked one lap on your next race.
The race computer will sound out 1 minute to go at this point you should be headed for the starting gate. At the 30 second count you should be on the gate. A 10 second count down will began telling the drivers the race will start in less than 10 seconds. At the tone the gate is dropped and the race is started. You will be informed at three minute intervals of race progress. At the half way mark you will hear the running order of the cars. At the end of the race you are told to finish the lap you are on. The driver that completes the most laps, including his last one, wins the race. If two or more drivers complete the same number of laps it goes in the order of lap times.
After the race the drivers collect their vehicles, turn them and their radio off. return track transponder to the base in its proper location. Those drivers must now marshal for the next race. This is repeated until every class has run once, that is the end of the first heat.
Will run with the same principles from above, There will not be exceptions made for the marshalling rule. If you do not marshal or get a substitute you will be docked on laps. We will run two heat races and a main for each class. The top driver from each of the lower mains i.e. B, C, D- will move up in mains. Points are awarded for participation, Top Qualifier, and position placed.
Work in progress, some rules may or may not apply based on event. Wichita R/C Raceway Inc. has the right to enforce rules based on conditions. Rules are based on pro series rules, as they come available or are incorporated.
Intermediate Class Rules You cannot run in Intermediate if any of the following applies. You have a chassis sponsorship from a manufacturer or distributor. It does not matter what percentage the sponsorship is. You have raced in the Expert version of the class you are registering for in any Series Division event.
Any Intermediate driver that finishes in the top 3 in any Division will be required to move up to the Expert class the following year. Any driver finishing 4th or 5th in two years not consecutively will be required to move up to Expert. Furthermore anyone finishing in the top 10 nationally in an Intermediate class will be required to bump up to expert.
All General rules and procedures in this book apply to all classes within WRCRW. Contradictions may occur within these rules by another rule in a specific class.
No person attending an WRCRW event will have any claim for damages, expenses, lawsuits, or otherwise against a promoter, track operator, WRCRW, its officials, agents, or employees, resulting from any damage to any car, personal injury, or monetary loss of any kind whatsoever.
All attendants waive any claim they may have against a promoter, track operator, or WRCRW, when they participate in any event being run under these rules.
Any driver, or pit crew, is required to wear closed toe shoes at all times while in the racing area.
Drivers meetings prior to each event is mandatory. Rules, procedures, and race formats will be discussed during this meeting. A one-lap penalty may be assed to any driver who does not attend the meeting. Registered drivers are the only ones who are allowed to compete under that name. In other words, drivers cannot have stand in drivers for them for any reason.
All drivers are responsible for the actions of his pit crew.
Any driver who is disqualified is required to leave the racing facility. There will be no refund of entry fees to a disqualified racer.
Any of the following actions by a driver or his pit crew will result in Disqualification from the event:
- Using non-authorized FCC frequency.
- Not reporting to the announcers booth or inspection area when asked to do so.
- Operating a car near the track that endangers others, or while a race is going on.
- Taking part in a protest demonstration at any time anywhere on the racing premises.
- Entering scoring areas or restricted areas without permission.
- Assaulting another individual.
- Turning on a radio during a race with the purpose of harming another drivers race.
The following may result in disqualification if the race director so sees fit:
- Using any parts that do not comply with the rules.
- Using improper language or actions with a race director.
- Using a non-assigned frequency.
- Allowing individuals to substitute for you in a race. going the wrong direction on track or ignoring starting gate rules.
- Rough driving or intentional hacking. Race Officials must witness and bring to the attention of the driver before a penalty can be assessed.
Track infractions may or may not be announced during the race.
A driver that has been disqualified or penalized can protest the decision of the Race Director to a designated WRCRW Official at the event. The final decision will be made by the highest-ranking WRCRW official. If a driver is being protested and does not make his car available for inspection, will automatically be disqualified. In qualifying protests can only be made by a driver in the same class. In the main events protests can only be made by a driver in the same main. A protest must be in writing and must be accompanied by a $30 fee per protest. Protests must be given to the Race Director within ten minutes of the race being protested.
Unruly or unsportsmanlike conduct will not be tolerated.
Individuals who cause any disturbance may be disqualified and removed by the race director if he/she so sees fit.
Race Directors have the right to refuse any entry for valid reason.
The race director may inspect any car at any time if for any reason there is a hazardous situation suspected.
RACING AND PRACTICING CONDITIONS
Drivers are not allowed to drive or operate their cars inside, or outside the racing area while races are being held to prevent frequency conflicts while races are being run.
A person, or another car may not push Cars across the finish line.
Cars must cross the finish line under their own power.
A drivers official time will be the total laps completed by his vehicle and the total time elapsed from the starting time until the vehicle crosses the finish line on the final lap. If the final lap is not completed, the driver will be credited with the number of full laps finished and the time for those laps.
The driver is scored, and not the car. A driver must race the car teched and he used to qualify with.
Drivers or cars may not be changed during qualifying or a main event.
Any material used to add weight to a car must be securely fastened. If this weight falls off during the coarse of a race, that car may be disqualified.
Before any driver is allowed onto the track, they must check in with the race officials and give them the drivers frequencies.
The frequency board is to be used at all practices (Place a pin on the frequency of the drivers radio, remove pin after radio is turned off.) A ten minute time limit is to be enforced for drivers using the same frequency.
During race events any changes in frequencies must be immediately reported to the race director.
Broken cars are to be removed from the track as soon as possible.
Work on the cars by corner marshals is not allowed under any circumstance. If a car is broken then fixed by pit crew, it must be restarted from pit lane.
Any driver who is demonstrating rough driving, unsportsmanlike conduct, or is hazardous to other cars and or people will be immediately black-flagged and may be disqualified from the event. If you receive a black flag during a race, you must immediately pull your car off the racing surface in a safe manner. Again failure to do so may result in disqualification. A black flag ruling may also be used at any time for abusive language to other drivers or race officials. In certain cases, warnings may be given. If any driver receives three warnings that will result in an automatic black flag.
Any driver that does not have complete control over his vehicle must immediately pull his car off the racing surface.
Any car that loses its body must pull off the track until a pit crew can secure the body back onto the car.
A driver practicing must have the appropriate frequency clip on his radio. Frequency clips are not allowed for any reason in the pit area and must stay inside the racing area. Drivers must use assigned frequency. The Race Director or a race official must approve any frequency change. If there are more than six drivers on 27 MHz in a main, the slowest will have to change to 75 MHz to compete in that main event. A driver who cannot or will not change will be forced to forfeit his right to run his main event. In case of a frequency conflict, the driver with the lowest amount of points, or highest qualified driver, has first choice.
EQUIPMENT RULES AND REGULATIONS
Radios used in WRCRW competition are limited to the following channels:
- 27 MHz Channels 1 through 6
- 75 MHz Channels 61 through 90
- 2.4 GHz systems
All radios must conform to FCC rules.
Radios must have the ability to change frequencies.
At least two sets of frequencies is required to attend WRCRW events.
Radios voltage is to be limited to the manufactures specifications.
External transmitter battery packs are not allowed.
Any radios operating more than two channels are not allowed (Except for in the Monster Truck Classes).
More than one function is allowed per device, but a servo is limited to one output shaft.
Reverse in competition is not allowed.
All race vehicles must be within the determined weight, height, and length requirements for each WRCRW approved class found in this rulebook.The use of traction control sensing devices, active suspension devices, and steering control are not allowed. Antennas must be flexible. Roll-over antennas are not allowed.
2 or 3 speed transmissions are not allowed (Except for in the Monster Truck Classes).
No hazardous or harmful material may be protruding anywhere off of any racecar.
Any engine that is protested may only be torn down and inspected at the end of the race.
Any wheel manufactured for competition may be used as long as it meets the class specs.
Wheels must be securely mounted to the vehicle at all times.
Axles may not protrude more than 1/16" beyond the outer edge of the tire.
The wheel measurement is as follows:
Mounting bead: this measurement is taken at the point where the tire bead meets the wheel.
Maximum wheel diameter: this is measured at the widest portion of the wheel.
Tires must be of one piece in circumference. No sectioning or piecing tires together. No spikes, tubes, or additional items to be glued to the outside of tires or passed through from the inside.
Sidewall lettering colors allowed.
Only tires manufactured for a specific class may be used.
Must be rubber only and available as a tire for that class.
No tires created for other vehicle types even if they fit the specifications will be allowed.
Cutting or modifying the tread is allowed.
Modifying the tire carcass in anyway is prohibited.Fuels may contain only methanol, nitro methane, and a lubricant.
Following additives are specifically prohibited: Hydrazine, hydrogen peroxide, propylene oxide, and toluene.Fuel tanks are to be securely mounted.
Any carburetor may be used as long as long as they fit inside the specifications for that class.
Restrictors are allowed as long as they are securely fastened in place.Throttle return springs are required on all vehicles.
Any type of bearings may be used.
No crimping of pipe outlet is allowed. See outlet size under engine spec rules. In case of damaged outlet pipe, the race director must approve repairs before the pipe can be used, and must still fit within the specs.
Brakes in working condition on all cars is mandatory. Cars should be able to sit still with the engine still running, while the brakes are applied.
Exhaust pipes are also required on every car. The maximum sound level is 85 decibels, measured at a ninety degree angle to the side of the car from a distance of 30 feet, 3 feet above the ground, with the car at maximum throttle and at all speeds.
Mufflers must be Series in shape and have a 90-degree end.An industrial quality digital caliper will be used to check all engine specifications.
A car that loses its exhaust pipe will be black-flagged. Variable exhaust timing, porting, or exhaust pipes with moveable parts are not allowed.
Hydraulics of any kind are not allowed.
All engines must be available through hobby shops.
Ceramic parts (piston and rod) are not allowed.
.12 Engine Specs:
- Max. Displacement for .12 size = .129 ci.
- Carb bore for 12 = 5.5mm
- Crankshaft gas passage diameter for 12 size = 7.0mm
- Internal ports for 12 size = 4
- Muffler outlet pipe bore for 12 size = 5mm
- Muffler outlet pipe length for 12 size = 15mm
.21 Engine Specs:
- Max. Displacement for .21 size = .214 ci.
- Carb bore for 21 = no limit
- Crankshaft gas passage diameter for 21 = no limit
- Internal ports for 21 size no limit.
- Muffler outlet pipe bore for 21 size = 8mm Min.
- Muffler outlet pipe length for 21 size = 15mm
Monster Truck
Scale - 1/10-1/8 Description:To be a Monster Truck, the lowest point of the engine must sit at least 1.5" inches above the lowest point along the front-back centerline when compressed (usually the "skid plates").
To tech questionable MTs, remove the wheels, place MT on flat surface, compress the vehicle fully and a ruler (or 1.5" gauge) could be used vertically to measure the engine above the surface.
No flat chassis (1/8 buggy style).
The following trucks are examples that fit within the above definition: T (and S) -Maxxes, Savage, MGT, Revo, TNX/TC, and LST providing no modifications have been made to make the vehicle not meet the Monster Truck rules.
Minimum track width - - - - - - - - Continuous 10 feet (same as 8th scales)
Wheel base - - - - - - - - Minimum 12 inches
Wheelbase - - - - - - - - Maximum 16 inchesVehicle width maximum - - - - - - - - outside tire to outside tire - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 19.5 inches
Transmission - - - - - - - - Must be multi speed gear reduction.
Diffs inside the transmission are allowed only. Front and rear brakes allowed.
Engine - - - - - - - - .12ci to .28c Carb - - - - - - - - No size restriction.
Carb must mount securely to the motor.
Exhaust - - - - - - - - Pipes must meet the 85 decibel limit and have no movable parts in them.
Minimum weight - - - - - - - - .12ci to .20.999ci Small blocks: 7lbs. 6 oz. minimum weight. .21 to .28 Big blocks: 4300 grams (~9.5 pounds) minimum weight Maximum weight for the safety of turn marshals - - - - - - - - 13 pounds 6 ounces
Fuel Tanks - - - - - - - - Single fuel tanks only.
Fuel Tank Volume Rule - - - - - - - - Based on motor size. .20999 or less will be limited to a maximum of 150mililitres/cc - - - - - - - - .21 and over is limited to a maximum of 175mililitres/cc. This includes fuel line from tank to carb and filter(s).
Bodies - - - - - - - - Truck or SUV (no buggy or car bodies allowed )
Bumpers - - - - - - - - Bumpers are optional. If used, must not extend further than 1" past the body on the front and rear.
Rear Spoiler/wing - - - - - - - - A spoiler/wing is optional.
Skid Plates - - - - - - - - Skid Plates must not extend further than 1" past the body on the front and rear.
Wheels - - - - - - - - Must be manufactured for Monster Trucks.
Wheel Mounting - - - - - - - - Wheel mounting - Must be securely mounted at all times.
Tires - - - - - - - - Must be rubber only. No tires created for other vehicle types even if they fit the specifications will be allowed. Cutting or modifying the tread is allowed. Modifying the tire carcass by sectioning or narrowing is prohibited. Due to the varying sizes of wheels available for Monster Trucks it IS legal to trim the mounting bead of a tire produced for the Monster Truck class to make it fit a Monster Truck rim. Example - Bowtie on a REVO wheel. All tire measurements reference the carcass dimensions and does not include the tread depth or width.
Tire diameter - - - - - - - - Minimum - 5.1" (mounted)
Tire width - - - - - - - - Minimum - 2.75"(mounted)Race lengths - - - - - - - - Qualifiers - 5 to 10 minutes, Main events - 15 to 60 minutes
NOTES: All Standard MT's will run in the same class. Big block/small block is no longer an issue, larger displacement engines have a heavier minimum weight to compensate. If a truck is modified so it does not fit these rules it must run in the Arena Truck Class. The WRCRW official will make the final decision.
Arena Truck Class
Scale -1/8 Description:Any Monster Truck that does not 100% meet the MONSTER TRUCK specifications while still meeting the below guidelines will run in the Arena Truck Class.
Minimum track width - - - - - - - - Continuous 10 feet (same as 8th scales)
Wheel base - - - - - - - - Minimum 12 inches
Wheelbase - - - - - - - - Maximum 16 inchesVehicle width maximum - - - - - - - - outside tire to outside tire - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 19.5 inches
Transmission/diff - - - - - - - - Single speed direct drive (1/8 buggy) style driveline only.
Engine - - - - - - - - .12ci to .28ci Carb - - - - - - - - No size restriction.
Carb must mount securely to the motor.Exhaust - - - - - - - - Pipes must meet the 85 decibel limit and have no movable parts in them.
Minimum weight - - - - - - - - 7lbs. 6 oz. minimum weight
Maximum weight for the safety of turn marshals - - - - - - - - 13 pounds 6 ounces
Fuel Tanks - - - - - - - - Single fuel tanks only no more than 150mililitres/cc. This includes fuel line from tank to carb and filter(s).
Bodies - - - - - - - - Truck or SUV (no buggy or car bodies allowed )
Bumpers - - - - - - - - Bumpers are optional. If used, must not extend further than 1" past the body on the front and rear.
Rear Spoiler/Wing - - - - - - - - A spoiler/wing is optional.
Skid Plates - - - - - - - - Skid Plates must not extend further than 1" past the body on the front and rear.
Wheels - - - - - - - - Must be manufactured for Monster Trucks.
Wheel Mounting - - - - - - - - Wheel mounting - Must be securely mounted at all times.
Tires - - - - - - - - Must be rubber only.
No tires created for other vehicle types even if they fit the specifications will be allowed.
Cutting or modifying the tread is allowed.
Modifying the tire carcass by sectioning or narrowing is prohibited.
Due to the varying sizes of wheels available for Monster Trucks it IS legal to trim the mounting bead of a tire produced for the Monster Truck class to make it fit a Monster Truck rim. Example - Bowtie on a REVO wheel. All tire measurements reference the carcass dimensions and does not include the tread depth or width.Tire diameter - - - - - - - - Minimum - 4.55" (mounted)
Tire width - - - - - - - - Minimum - 2.25"(mounted) The Panther LP is referenced for this size and will be the absolute smallest tire legal.Race lengths - - - - - - - - Qualifiers - 5 to 10 minutes, Main events - 15 to 60 minutes
NOTES: There will be an expert and Intermediate Arena Truck class. If a racer runs in the expert 1/8 class he/she must run in the expert Arena class.
1/10 FUEL 2WD OFF-ROAD TRUCK SPECS
All trucks must be 2wd.
Maximum truck length - 18
Maximum truck width - 13Truck wheel base - Minimum - 9
Maximum - 11.5 MinimumTruck weight - 2WD - 60 ounces = 3lbs. 12oz.
Truck wheel diameter - Minimum-mounting bead - 2.175
Maximum mounting bead 2.25" Maximum overall - 2.46Wheel mounting - Must be securely mounted at all times.
Maximum Truck wheel width - 2 Truck tire width - Minimum - 2" Maximum - 2.125 Minimum
Truck tire diameter - 3.6 Wheel cut out - Use body cut lines
Engine - .12 . This year a .15 RTR is legal. This is an effort to help grow this class due to the number of RTR Gas Trucks that come with a .15. Fuel - Maximum allowed 75 milliliters/cc for the tank, filter(s) and fuel line from tank to carb.
Transmission - 1 speed only - viscous or slipper drivers are allowed
Rear suspension Independent
Main events - 5 to 60 Minutes
Bodies - Off-road Truck
Tires - Rubber only
1/8 FUEL OFF-ROAD SPECS
Minimum track width - continuous 10 feet
Maximum Buggy length - 28.74 (730mm)
Maximum Buggy width - 12.2 (310mm)
Maximum Buggy height - 9.84 (250mm)Buggy wheel base - Minimum - 10.8 (270mm)
Maximum - 13.2 (330mm)Minimum weight - 112.9 ounces (3.2 kilos) 7lbs .9 oz.
Wheel diameter - Minimum - 3.2 (81.28)
Maximum - 3.4 (86.36mm)Wheel mounting - Must be securely mounted at all times.
Maximum wheel width - 1.75 (44.45mm)
Tire diameter - Minimum - 4.3 (109.22mm)
Maximum - 4.7 (119.38mm)
Maximum tire width - 1.85 (46.99mm)Engine - .21 only Fuel - Maximum 125 milliliters/cc includes tank, filter(s) and fuel line from tank to carb.
Transmission - 1 speed only
Rear suspension Independent
Main events - 5 to 60 Minutes
Bodies - Buggy or other off-road style body that resembles an actual off-road racing vehicle
Tires - Rubber only
NOTES:
Maximum height is measured with suspension fully compressed
WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF RADIO CONTROL CARS!
Who hasn't fantasized about climbing behind the wheel of an exotic high-performance racing machine, or the latest street-legal super car Few of us can afford to make such fantasies become reality, but your automotive dreams can easily become real with radio control, or RC. RC cars are much more than models; they're fully-functional automobiles that can go as fast as 60MPH and are equipped with working suspension systems that borrow technology directly from the real deal. There are electric- and engine-powered kits to suit different tastes and budgets, and just about every type of wheeled machine can be replicated in RC. From monster trucks to dragsters, street sedans to off road stadium racers, you can experience them all with the radio control car hobby.
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN TOY RC CARS AND HOBBY RC CARS
The RC cars and trucks that you see on TV and in toy stores offer a great way for young people to get involved in a rewarding hobby; however, there are few similarities between these toy-grade vehicles and those you'll find at a hobby shop. For example, most hobby-grade R/C vehicles are available as an unassembled kit. You build the vehicle from the ground up, piece by piece, so you'll know exactly how it works and how to fix it if something breaks. With few exceptions, you'll be able to make repairs yourself without having to send it back to the manufacturer because you'll know the vehicle inside and out. Also, hobby-grade R/C vehicles are generally made of better materials than toy grade vehicles, so they can withstand the severe punishment of a backyard obstacle course or a high-speed cartwheel at the local parking lot. Hobby kits are designed to provide long life and superior performance.
THE MANY TYPES OF RC CARS AND TRUCKS
RC cars come in many shapes and sizes, from 1/24 scale models you can run on a tabletop to Scale behemoths that are as big as a tabletop. Here's a quick overview of the most popular RC categories:
ENGINE POWER OR ELECTRIC POWER
RC vehicles come in all shapes and sizes, but the most basic distinction between types of RC car models is their power source. All are either powered by an electric motor and battery, or an engine that runs on fuel. Which is better for a beginner Faster More fun The answers may surprise you!
ELECTRIC VEHICLES
Have the advantage of clean, quiet operation. They expel no fumes, and don't produce any significant noise. They can be operated indoors, cost less than similar engine-powered models, and are the easiest types of vehicles to get started in the hobby with. In terms of performance, electric models can have some disadvantages. Duration is limited by battery capacity, so you'll have to stop every ten minutes or so to recharge the battery pack (or install a fresh pack, if you have a few charged and ready to go). In stock form, electric vehicles are generally not as fast as similar nitro-powered machines, but it's easy to make an electric car faster with an aftermarket motor although such a modification will also decrease battery life.
ENGINE POWERED MODELS
Which are more commonly called "nitro" kits, because they run on nitro methane-based fuel (more on that later), have two primary advantages: higher speed and longer run time. It's easy to make a "pit stop" for more fuel with a nitro-powered car, and keep driving with only a moment's interruption. But remember, the on-board battery that powers the vital radio gear will eventually need a recharge, so don't go too long without stopping! Nitro cars are generally faster than similar electrics and the realism of authentic engine sound and exhaust smoke add a gee-whiz factor that electrics can't match. But those can also be disadvantages, if you wish to operate the vehicle in an area where noise is an issue, or wish to run your car indoors nitro-power is for the great outdoors only. Nitro cars also require more frequent maintenance, are more expensive than similar electric models, and tend to be a little messy, due to fuel and exhaust residue.
GETTING STARTED WITH ELECTRIC-POWERED MODELS
When you've settled on the type of kit you'd like to build, you'll have to buy the other items you'll need to get your project up and running. Here's what's required to build, control and run most electric-powered kits:
RADIO SYSTEM
When you've built your dream car, you'll need to control it somehow. Think of the radio as your link to the R/C vehicle gas pedal! A radio system consists of three major parts: the transmitter, receiver, and servos. Transmitter: The unit that you hold in your hands is called the transmitter, and sends steering and throttle commands to the vehicle. The transmitter is usually configured as a pistol grip with a wheel on one side and a trigger in the traditional position. The trigger controls the throttle, and a wheel handles the steering. Receiver: The second part of the system is called the receiver, and it's mounted inside the R/C vehicle. The receiver's job is to catch the signal from the transmitter and translate your commands into action, by sending the signals to the third part of the radio system: the servos. Servos: These are also mounted inside the R/C vehicle, and are plugged into the receiver. Messages from the receiver tell the servo in which direction it should move and for how far. The servos move the steering and throttle linkages to control speed and direction, as you command with the transmitter. Electric cars may use a servo and a mechanical speed control for throttle control, or may substitute the assembly for an electronic speed control, better known as an ESC. Click here to find out more about speed controls.
ELECTRIC VEHICLES
1/10 scale Buggies: Sleek and fast, buggies are great for racing or play. Most are two-wheel-drive (2WD), with top speeds of about 15-30 mph. For use on or off-road. 1/10 scale Stadium trucks: Stadium trucks share much of their component with buggies, but are wider and can handle rougher terrain thanks to increased suspension travel. Most are two-wheel-drive (2WD), with top speeds of about 15-30 mph. For use on or off road. 1/10 scale Monster trucks: This popular category includes 2WD and 4WD trucks. The 2WD models are more affordable and use a single motor; the 4WD monsters use two motors for super torque and crushing power. Both have soft, long-travel suspension to soak up bumps. Top speed is about 15mph. For use on or off road. 1/10 scale Touring cars: These are probably the most realistic electric RC cars, with bodies just like those you see on the highway everyday. Tourers are 4WD, and can go as fast as 40mph with the right motor. For use on road only.
BATTERY PACK AND BATTERY CHARGER
The battery pack is an electric vehicle's "gas tank"; when it's empty, you'll have to "re-fill" it by charging it with a battery charger. Battery packs are available with varying capacities, measured in milliamp hours. A "2000" pack has can store 2000milliamps of energy, and will allow a vehicle to operate for a longer duration than a "1500" pack with 1500 milliamps. But just as a full-size car does not go slower because there is less fuel in the tank, an electric vehicle does not go slower if the battery has reduced capacity (or faster if it has increased capacity).
BASIC HAND TOOLS
With few exceptions, electric-powered R/C kits can easily be put together using the simplest tools. In general, you'll need a slotted screwdriver and a Phillips screwdriver, a sharp hobby knife and a pair of needle-nose pliers. Most manufacturers include various Allen-head wrenches and the lubricants needed to complete their kits...
SPEED CONTROL BASICS
Many electric-powered kits come with mechanical speed controls. They're simple, switching devices that are worked by a separate servo to provide a range of forward speeds (usually three), as well as a reverse function to allow you to back your car out of trouble. Mechanical speed controls perform well enough, and because they're inexpensive and included with many entry-level kits, they allow beginners to get up and running with a smaller investment. When you've gained some experience with your new R/C vehicle, you may wish to upgrade to an electronic speed control (ESC). This self-contained, electronic switching device replaces the mechanical unit and its additional servo. You'll find that an ESC allows much more precise throttle control, requires no maintenance, operates more efficiently, and saves both weight and space on your car's chassis. There are many ESCs available from expensive, full racing versions to economical ones that may have reverse. Whichever you consider, you should match your speed-control purchase to the type of RC activity in which you participate and the size of your budget.
NITRO VEHICLES
1/10 scale Stadium trucks: Nitro stadium trucks appear identical to electric stadium trucks, but use a .12 cubic-inch displacement engine for power instead of an electric motor. They're good for racing or play, and average about 30mph for top speed. For use on or off road. 1/10 scale Touring cars: nitro tourers may use .12 or .15 power plants, and can be very fast indeed up to 55mph. As with electric tourers, nitro tourers feature 4WD and realistic body lines. For on road use only. 1/8 scale Monster trucks: These giants feature large .21 engines that make a lot of horsepower. As a result, nitro monsters are fast (about 40mph) and can plow over or through just about anything! For use on or off road. 1/8 scale Buggies: Like the other 1/8 scale machines, these vehicles are powered by .21 engines. Buggies can go just about anywhere, are very tough, and top out close to 60mph. For use on- or off-road. 1/8 scale On-road cars: The cutting edge of RC performance! Top speeds of the .21-powered cars approach 80mph and shifting 2- or 3-speed transmissions are standard. Foam tires provide super grip, but wear quickly, and these machines are strictly for smooth road courses not for the inexperienced.
GETTING STARTED WITH ENGINE-POWERED MODELS
Nitro-powered models also require a radio system and basic tools for assembly, and have some additional specific needs of their own. Remember to ask about the following when you're in the hobby shop!
RECEIVER BATTERY:
Unlike electric-powered models, which use the on-board battery that powers the motor to also power the receiver and servos, a nitro-powered model requires a separate battery to power the on-board radio gear. Most radio systems include a holder for 4 "AA" batteries to do the job, but replacing batteries can get expensive. Most modelers use a rechargeable receiver battery instead, which requires a charger. Although more expensive up front, a rechargeable receiver pack and charger will save you money in the long run (even not-so-long run).
GLOW-PLUG IGNITER
This heats the engine's glow plug (the equivalent of a spark plug is a full-scale car) so that the fuel in the combustion chamber can ignite and cause the engine to run. Once running, the heat of combustion keeps the glow plug hot, and the glow-plug igniter is removed.
ELECTRIC STARTER
Most entry-level and "play" kits include pull-starters (just like a lawn mower), and do not require an electric starter. But for those that don't have a pull-starter, you'll need either a hand-held, 12V starter or an electric starter box. Both types of starter have spinning, rubber wheels that, when placed against the engine's flywheel, cause the engine's crankshaft to rotate and fire the engine into life.
NITRO FUEL
Although often referred to as "gas powered", nitro models DO NOT run on gasoline. RC fuel is a mixture of nitro methane and synthetic or castor oil lubricants. It is flammable and should be treated with care, but it is not nearly as volatile as gasoline. Never attempt to use gasoline in a nitro engine!
FUEL BOTTLE
This is simply a small, squeezable bottle with a long neck that makes it easier to fill your models gas tank. Pouring fuel into a tiny tank opening from a full gallon jug of fuel invariably leads to mess and waste!
READY-TO-RUN MODELS
Are you interested in RC, but the prospect of building the kit yourself has you concerned Fear not! Many of the popular RC car manufacturers offer assembled versions of their nitro- and electric-powered kits that are completely ready to run (RTR), which substantially cuts down on the time it takes to go from box to track. You get the convenience of a "toy" RC car, with the quality and performance of a hobby-quality kit. With an RTR, you can be ready for wild RC action in an hour or less. If you buy an RTR, be sure to save the instruction manual, because it will be invaluable if you have to make repairs.
RC Nitro Engine Break-in
Where to begin? Read the book!
Before you even place your nitro car on a starter box or yank its pull-starter, read the instruction manual that came with your engine or car kit. Most nitro kits? manuals have a section that will tell you approximately where the carburetor's needle settings should be for initial start up. We have found that higher-end (more expensive) engines tend to follow the instruction's settings more closely, which means that when the manual says to set the high-end needle at three turns out from closed, this is almost exactly where the engine will run best for break-in.
For sport-type engines, the needle position that allows the engine to fire and run may be quite different from what's recommended in the manual. In our experience, if a sport engine won't fire, leaning the high-speed needle in small increments will get it going. Once the engine fires and runs consistently, we will usually richen the needle back to where the instructions recommend. Never run a new engine, or even an older one, too lean!
Your new engine's first run
We know that you want to go out and do some hot laps the instant your new engine fires to life? but don't! The first few runs of your new engine are critical. Once your engine starts, place the car on a stand so that its wheels can't touch the ground. Let the engine idle at low rpm for a few minutes (two or three minutes will do), then shut the engine down and let it cool.During this procedure, it's also important that the piston not be at the top of the cylinder while the engine is cooling. Part of what's taking place during break-in is that the engine's mating parts are being heat-cycled they're expanding when the engine is hot and contracting when it cools. Heat cycling stabilizes the metal and allows mating parts to fit better against each other. Keeping the piston out of the upper portion of the cylinder (which is smaller in diameter than the lower portion in order to create a better seal during combustion) will allow the cylinder to properly contract as it cools? without interference from the piston. To figure out where the piston is in relation to the cylinder, just turn the flywheel? it will become difficult to turn when the piston is at the top of the cylinder, where the fit between the piston and cylinder is its tightest. Just turn the flywheel until the piston is in the middle of its ?easy turning? part.
Now you're ready to lay down some horsepower, right? Wrong! Repeat the above steps three or four more times.
Yes, you can drive it now
After you've heat-cycled your engine, you can finally put it on the track. But don't get too excited yet? you must run it with a very rich high-speed needle setting. Some engine experts recommend that, during break-in, the engine be set rich enough so that it will actually four-cycle instead of two (our nitro engines are two-cycle, which means that the fuel/air mixture is ignited once for every two strokes of the piston). Four cycling means that the engine is actually only firing one time for every four strokes of the piston. In this condition, all of the unburned fuel passing through the combustion chamber takes heat (and any tiny metal particles created during the breaking-in process) right out to the exhaust pipe!Do you really need to run the engine this rich? Well, the experts know their stuff, but we have broken in dozens of new engines without actually allowing them to four stroke. Whether or not you four-stroke your engine during break-in is entirely up to you? just make absolutely certain that the high-speed needle is set very rich: lots of blue smoke should be coming from the exhaust, and the engine should sound ?blubbery.?
During this procedure, it's vital that you avoid prolonged use of full throttle, which could strain the engine. You should instead ?blip? the throttle as you drive the car to avoid spending too much time in one particular rpm range.
Run the engine using these settings for three or four tank full's of fuel, allowing the engine to cool in between runs.
Now comes the good part! Once you've put about six to eight tanks of fuel through the engine (as outlined above), it's time to begin leaning the high-speed needle and making some power! Begin by leaning the high-speed needle (by turning it inward, or clockwise) by about one-hour (if you imagine the needle as a clock face, one full turn of the needle would equal 12 hours). Run the car for a minute or so, then bring it back in and lean the needle by another one hour increment. Repeat this process until the engine begins to achieve good rpm, but it shouldn't be allowed to ?scream? quite yet. The engine should still be creating lots of blue smoke from its exhaust.
Before you achieve that screaming race setting, we recommend that you run your engine for a few more full tanks in this ?almost race? setting. Once you get the needle set to where your engine is making good rpm, richen it (by turning the needle counter-clockwise) by about a quarter of a turn? this is your final setting.
The final steps
Once you've found a good setting for the high-speed needle that allows the engine to make good power yet still push plenty of blue smoke from the exhaust (especially when the car exits a turn), it's time to set the low-end needle and the idle-stop screw.Most engine manufacturers recommend a specific setting for the idle-stop screw, and they're usually well within the ballpark. For now, set the idle-stop screw so that the engine will idle at a moderate rpm without stalling.
Bring the engine up to operating temperature by driving it for a few minutes. Now stop the car and listen to the engine's idle speed. If the engine idles fast but then slows down in just a few seconds, the low-speed needle is probably set too rich. Lean the low-speed needle (by turning it clockwise in one-hour increments) until, after running a few more laps, the idle stays high for about twenty seconds or so when you stop the car. Once you've done this, use the idle-stop screw to make the final adjustment of the idle speed.
For sport engines which lack a low-speed needle, the idle-stop screw is the only method of adjusting the engine's idle speed. For these engines, simply turn the idle-screw clockwise to increase idle speed, and counterclockwise to reduce the idle speed.
Setting your engine's idle speed isn't a contest to see how low you can get it without stalling the engine! Your goal when setting the idle should be to allow the engine to run at moderate rpm without the clutch being engaged whatsoever. Your car should be able to sit at a standstill when idling. If you have to hold the brake, the idle is too high. If you have to blip the throttle to prevent stalling the engine, the idle it too low.
Enjoy your new engine! Nitro powered R/C vehicles can be tons of fun, or they can cause tons of frustration. The difference between success or failure lies with the break-in process. If you follow these steps, have patience, and use your noggin, you're assured of success. Rushing through the break-in procedure or worse, forgetting it altogether, is a recipe for disaster.
Tuning your engine is the hardest part of nitro racing. But once you've learned how the carburetor works, and which screw does what, it will all become second nature. So when you're running your car, you'll always know exactly what to adjust to gain the highest level of performance possible.
Nitro Engine Tips
MAXIMIZE YOUR ENGINE'S POWER POTENTIAL
So now you can get your engine started on a regular basis, but you're still struggling with the fine-tuning that will score you a win at the racetrack (or bragging rights at the parking lot). Properly tuning a nitro engine can make that difference without jeopardizing its health. It takes time to learn how to really tune your engine, however. There's a certain "feel" to how your car drives and a certain sound you'll come to know when your engine has been ideally tuned. Other cues that you feel and hear tell you what to adjust when your engine isn't running properly. When it's time to tune your engine, there's no substitute for plain old experience. Reading about engine tuning is helpful, but you need to experiment with your engine to improve your tuning skills. The good news is that the following tips will help you avoid some of the pitfalls of fine-tuning and achieve tuning proficiency more quickly.
BASE-LINE MIXTURE SETTINGS
Engine manufacturers often include base-line settings for the mixture needles, so it's wise to start with these. If this information is not provided, then you must arrive at needle settings that will get the engine started. A universal starting point is usually about 1 turn open (counterclockwise) on the low-speed needle and somewhere in the 2- to 3-turn range on the high-speed needle. This varies among engines, but it gets you started running, and then you can make the necessary corrections. After the initial startup, follow the proper break-in procedure, then worry about performance tuning!
The proper sequence for adjusting the mixture needles is hotly debated. When you start to fine-tune the engine, it's generally best to start with the high-speed needle, then set the low-speed. First, however, get your engine running, and keep it running before you worry about race tuning.
During break-in, the engine typically idles a long time, so it's best to adjust the low-speed setting first so the engine runs slightly rich (loading up every 30 seconds or so). It requires an occasional "blip" of the throttle to clear out any raw fuel that has accumulated in the engine. Once break-in is finished, then get the high-speed needle in the ballpark.
Place the car on the ground and accelerate smoothly to give the engine a chance to build some heat. With the high-speed needle in the proper range, the engine should be able to rev relatively well up to full speed once it has been running for a few minutes on the track or parking lot.
FINE-TUNING
A word of caution first: there's a fine line between the perfect tune and a blown or damaged engine. Nitro-engine fuel also contains engine lubricant, so as you get close to dialing in the mixture to where there is just enough fuel to burn and deliver maximum power, you also are close to having just enough oil to keep the engine lubricated. Anyone with experience in tuning 2-stroke engines can tell you that they run best right before they seize or blow up. Our engines are a little tougher and more capable of taking some abuse than bigger 2-strokes, but there's no sense in pushing the mixture settings so lean that you risk damage to the engine. I can't say this too often: get the engine up to full running temperature by running the car exactly as you would on the track or parking lot. The high-speed needle setting depends on the type of driving you do. I'll start with a racing setup.
HIGH-SPEED NEEDLE
Racers will tune the high-speed setting to get from point A to point B as quickly as possible. (Performance also depends on a proper low-speed needle setting, but for now, let's concentrate on the high-speed setting.) The best place to race tune your engine is on the track where you run. I prefer to set the high-speed mixture so the car can leg out the track's longest straight section in the shortest time. Estimate the time by "feel" and gut instinct, or use a stopwatch for more accuracy. The high-speed mixture should be set to maximize engine performance for that particular track configuration. A short, tight track may require a main mixture setting just a shade on the lean side to provide maximum power out of the corners. You needn't be concerned about high-rpm performance because the track is too small for the engine to ever reach peak rpm. A long, high-speed track may require a slightly rich main-needle setting. If an engine constantly revs at the upper limits of the rpm range, the fuel mixture should be richened to ensure proper lubrication across the entire rpm range. This slightly rich setting might reduce bottom-end acceleration to a degree, but longer tracks require a slightly richer mixture setting to let the engine rev to its limits without running dry of fuel and oil.
Why is it important to tune the engine to the track? A mixture needle can only provide optimum performance within a relatively narrow rpm range. Anywhere below this hypothetical rpm range, the engine runs slightly rich; anywhere above, it gets progressively leaner. Until we have fuel injection that constantly optimizes fuel mixture throughout the rpm range, there needs to be a degree of compromise with the mixture settings. So, ideally, set the mixture to provide the most power in an rpm range that is best suited to the track on which you run.
WIDE-OPEN RUNNING
Running in parking lots, particularly larger ones with a lot of breathing room, requires unique mixture settings. It's a common mistake to establish mixture settings for maximum punch-as though the car will be run within the confines of a tight racetrack-and then to go out and run at wide-open throttle (WOT) in a huge parking lot for 5 minutes. This type of running is incredibly unhealthy for an engine to begin with, and compounding the problem with an excessively lean main-needle setting is a recipe for disaster. If you still insist on torturing your engine, the high-speed mixture setting needs to be as much as 1/4 turn richer than typical to provide optimum fuel for the upper rpm range. The engine will be a little softer when accelerating from a standstill, but it's the only way to ensure there is an adequate supply of fuel and oil when running at the upper end of the rpm range. The inherent danger is that this type of running taxes the connecting rod and other engine components to their limits, but having the proper mixture setting will at least delay the inevitable.
LOW-SPEED NEEDLE
The high-speed needle is dialed in, so now let's properly set the low-speed needle. It's important to set it last because it simply regulates the fuel that flows from the main needle at low throttle settings. Lean out the main needle, and you automatically lean the low-speed needle as well. For this reason, it's wise to finish with the low-speed setting.
Again, it's imperative for the engine to be at full operating temperature. There are many methods of testing the low-speed needle setting; one is to pinch the fuel line. When you pinch the fuel line, the engine rpm increase slightly. Keep pinching it, and the engine will eventually stall. If the engine rpm increase dramatically, it indicates that the low-speed setting may be too rich. Or, if the low-speed setting is already too lean, the engine rpm may not increase much at all, and the engine will stall rather quickly. It's a somewhat crude method and doesn't tell you what to expect from the engine on the track, but it will get you into the ballpark.
Another common way is the "see-how-long-it-will-idle" method. The low-speed needle adjustment affects how long the engine will idle. A too lean fuel mixture causes the engine to race and possibly stall, limiting the duration of a steady idle. A too rich low-speed-mixture setting causes the engine idle to steadily drop and eventually stall. The ideal setting allows the engine to hold a smooth, steady idle for 10 to 20 seconds (max), and then the engine rpm decrease steadily because the crankcase loads up with fuel. Why? There are no awards given for the longest-idling engine. If the engine is able to idle steadily for a longer time, then it may start to lean out and heat up during a race and make it difficult to drive the car and keep the engine running. The only flaw in this method is that it doesn't tell you whether you have an artificially rich mixture to compensate for an idle speed that's too high.
A common mistake is to set the idle-speed screw to keep the carburetor open too far. The low-speed needle must then be artificially rich to bring the idle down to a reasonable rpm. The symptoms are similar to a too rich low-speed-mixture setting; there's just a delay in the loss of engine rpm. How do you avoid this? This is also something that becomes easier with experience, but just continue to reduce the idle speed and lean the mixture until you know you can't go any further. Bottom line: adjust the idle-speed screw to suit the fuel-mixture setting, not the other way around.
The simplest and most foolproof method to properly set the low-speed mixture is, again, to do it on the track. Set the low-speed needle so your car gets the strongest launch after sitting still for about 10 seconds. The engine should be able to pull strongly off the line without hesitation. A noticeable hesitation might be the result of either a rich or a lean low-speed mixture; knowing the difference takes experience, but look for signs that help point you in the right direction. How an engine decelerates can tell you as much as how it accelerates. If the engine spools down and rpm drops uncharacteristically low, it indicates that the low-speed-mixture setting is too rich. Or, if the engine takes too long to reach a steady idle and seems to want to keep revving, that tells you the low-speed-mixture setting is too lean. It can also indicate a lean high-speed-mixture setting, but that setting should have been addressed by properly setting the high-speed mixture first.
It will take a little time to get it right. If you make small adjustments and are patient, you really can't do anything wrong. An adjustment you make in the wrong direction is reflected in engine performance; to correct the problem, simply go the other way.
CHANGING FUEL
Changing to a higher percentage of nitro fuel sounds like an easy method of developing more horsepower, but it isn't always that simple. Without getting into all the particulars of nitro fuel, I'll just say that there is a point where you can have too much nitro. Adding up to 10 percent more nitro than is typical produces more power, but you have to know how to adjust your engine to accommodate the extra nitro. Fuel-mixture settings need to be slightly richer when nitro content is increased. Also, you may have to increase head clearance by adding an extra head shim. The extra fuel introduced into the combustion chamber increases compression by adding non-compressible matter; this also increases cylinder pressure during the combustion process, which may cause detonation. Detonation occurs when the fuel explodes instead of burning, and that can cause internal engine damage. The extra head shim will likely prevent detonation when fuel with higher nitro content is used.
A final note about fuel: fuel with a lower oil content (for manufacturers that actually disclose the amount of oil in their fuels) should be run with a richer mixture setting. This doesn't so much relate to performance as it does to the benefit of the engine. Conversely, fuels with higher oil content have the extra lubrication that allows a leaner mixture setting with less risk of engine damage. Fuels with a lower concentration of lubricant are intended for competition use by experienced engine tuners. These fuels will make marginally more power because the lubricant that's removed is replaced with power-producing nitro and methanol. Evaluate your tuning ability honestly before you run out to buy fuel with a lower oil content.
GLOW PLUG
A glow plug's temperature range is critical to proper performance. Small-block engines generally use warm to hot glow plugs, while big-block engines use plugs in the colder range. If you choose a plug in the wrong temperature range, you could be chasing the tune of your engine till the sun goes down. Changes of the relative temperature of the glow plug can be beneficial, however.
A combination of compression, heat and a catalytic reaction between the platinum in the glow-plug coil and the methanol in the fuel creates combustion in a nitro engine. Altering the heat range of your glow plug can alter the timing of the combustion process. Nitro engines don't have an ignition system that can be used to advance or retard combustion timing, but a hotter plug that causes ignition a little earlier in the combustion process can have the same effect. "Advancing" the ignition timing can increase overall power output, especially at higher rpm. There are limits, however, and installing too hot a plug causes pre-ignition (detonation) and risks damaging your engine.
It's a challenge to figure out a glow plug's temperature range. Manufacturers don't use a consistent and universal standard to rate the temperature ranges of their glow plugs. You will probably know the temperature of a plug relative to others within a given product line, but currently, no rating system allows comparisons among manufacturers. Here again, plain old experience with a variety of glow plugs will help you to know which are best for the effect you want.
"Reading" the glow plug is a tuning technique advanced by Ron Paris. It suggests that looking at the glow plug tells you something about how your engine is running. The element in a glow plug will turn gray in an engine that is close to the optimum fuel mixture. This method requires a new glow plug, as the element will eventually turn gray regardless of the needle settings; the length of time it takes to turn gray is the issue. Plugs that turn gray in just a tank or two of fuel (running at race pace, not diddling around) indicate a fuel mixture close to ideal-but also close to trouble. If the plug stays wet and shiny for a few tanks of fuel, you're in the safe zone; a little rich but safe. When the plug wire gets distorted or broken, however, you're in real trouble. It's a sure sign that the mixture is way too lean, or that there is too much compression and the engine is detonating.
HEAD SHIMS
Engines are essentially air pumps. The engine takes air in, mixes it with fuel, and then the mixture is compressed and ignited. The additional pressure created by the burning fuel increases by a factor directly related to the amount of compression: increasing compression increases power output. But there are limits to the compression an engine tolerates. Too much causes the fuel mixture to combust too quickly, and that returns us to the same detonation scenario of an excessively hot glow plug.
The amount of compression is determined by the number and thickness of the shims (gaskets) between the cylinder head and the top of the piston sleeve. Well, it's determined by many other factors, but the only one easily changed is the head clearance via head shims. More shims = less compression; less shims = more compression. Removing or replacing shims with thinner ones increases compression. Some engines have only one shim, so it isn't advisable to run without a shim at all. Moderation is the key. Go slowly, and make small, not drastic, changes that will minimize the risk of damage to your engine. First and foremost, be sure the piston won't hit the cylinder head if you remove a shim (or shims).
You can also change compression with glow plugs. Some manufacturers make a longer glow plug that protrudes slightly into the combustion chamber, effectively reducing the area in which the fuel mixture is compressed. This area is already small, and the little extra space occupied by a longer glow plug will raise compression. This is not the most desirable method, but it can be used on engines that have only one thin head shim. It's unlikely that the longer plug will even come into contact with the piston, but just to be safe, check the head clearance before you install a long plug.
WEATHER CONDITIONS
It's a simple fact: for optimum performance, you must retune your nitro engine every time you run it. Anyone who assumes that the needles can be left alone once they have been set is sadly mistaken. An overnight change in weather conditions may prevent an engine from running or may put it at risk of some damage if adjustments aren't made to the fuel-mixture settings. Ignoring an engine's tuning needs compromises its ability to make horsepower. In response to certain changes in weather, equipment and other variables, nitro engines must be regularly retuned.
Temperature.
Hot weather requires a leaner mixture setting; cold weather requires a richer setting. Most people assume the opposite because they treat the mixture needle like a thermostat. It is wrong to assume that colder weather requires a leaner setting to keep heat in the engine and vice versa. Cold air is denser than hot air. The denser, colder air packs more oxygen into the engine, so going from hot weather to cold needs a commensurate increase of fuel to balance ratio of fuel-burning oxygen and the fuel itself. The opposite is true in hotter weather. Going from cold to hot weather requires a leaner mixture setting.
Humidity
Humidity is the amount of moisture (water vapor) in the air. Moisture in the air takes up volume that would otherwise be occupied by fuel-burning oxygen. Less oxygen means less fuel is required to maintain a proper ratio of air and fuel. High humidity requires a leaner mixture setting than dry conditions.
Barometric pressure
A barometer measures the atmospheric pressure (generally listed in the local newspaper or on the local weather forecast on TV). Higher barometric pressure readings mean more air is getting into the engine, requiring a richer mixture setting to balance the air/fuel ratio.
Altitude.
Altitude is an important factor that most of us ignore, yet it affects the engine's performance possibly more than any other element. The general formula for power loss with increases in altitude is 3 percent for every 1,000 feet above sea level. If you race in Colorado at 5,000 feet instead of in California at sea level, you can expect to lose about 15 percent of the engine's potential power output, if the engine is tuned properly. Air is thinner at higher altitudes, which means there's less fuel-burning oxygen than at sea level. You might sense a common theme here: less air (oxygen) means less fuel to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio. So, running at higher altitudes requires a leaner mixture setting than running at sea level.
The best way to learn more about tuning nitro rc cars are to get tips directly from the experts, the fastest drivers, the World Champions. Here are some of the best tuning tips for nitro rc cars as posted on various websites.
Servos for Nitro RC Cars
"What I've found, I like to use a good high-torque servo, both for steering and for throttle. Usually they're quick enough so you can improve on your driving...they will hold the cars wheels in that position even if forces from the track are trying to change it." "The throttle servo to me is more important than the steering servo because of the brakes." - Arturo Carbonell of Team Serpent
Radio Controller Tuning
"I know a lot of new radios have all kinds of adjustments, inputs, abs, exponential, throttle help, steering help, etc., etc. If you like to play with that stuff, you can try it, but I personally don't use any of those adjustments to improve my driving. Again, all those adjustments are a crutch. You won't learn to improve your driving by using them." - Arturo Carbonell of Team Serpent
Nitro Engine Tuning Tips
Most importantly, listen to your engines. A lot of people fall into just watching the smoke that comes from the exhaust and tuning the engines that way. This way is ok but if for some reason you use different fuel (with different oil content or mixtures) it becomes much more difficult to make your engines perform consistently from race to race and in different weather conditions from just the sight of smoke. Learn how your engine sounds and responds to your throttle input." - Josh Cyrul
Nitro RC Cars Fuel Tips
"I usually only run 25-30%. I don' t like running over that - the engines weren't originally designed and made for that. They are actually made to run on 16% - that is the EFRA and IFMAR rule!!" - Josh Cyrul
Clutch Tuning
"When the clutch engages too soon it bogs the motor, which hurts acceleration. The motor needs to reach it's power band at the same time the clutch fully engages. A good rule of thumb for clutch adjustment is: if the car moves before you see smoke from the exhaust, your clutch is engaging too soon.
I. Clearing the Engine These 4 steps will clear the engine of debris in preparation for race tuning.
1. Raise idle to 1/4 turn. This will help prevent engine from stalling. This is the idle screw and not the low-end needle.
2. Get engine temperature up to 150 degrees.
3. Richen top end by a full turn.
4. Holding carburetor wide open, continue richening top end until engine nearly stalls. This flushes out dirt, residue, or after-run oil from the carb and engine.II. Begin Tuning the Bottom End
1. First tune the bottom end.
2. Listen to the idle.
3. If idle slows and engine stalls, lean out the bottom-end needle.
4. But if the idle speeds up, richen out the bottom-end needle.
5. Set engine to idle for at least 1 minute before engines starts to stall.
6. Once idle is consistent for 1 minute, lower idle screw setting as much as possible until engine stalls. Then open up idle screw setting by 1/8 of a turn.
7. Engine should now idle consistently for at least 45+ seconds.III. Begin Tuning the Top End
1. Open to full throttle for no more than 2-3 seconds, then return to idle.
2. Listen to engine and lean it out (top-end needle) until you hear a nice clean sound.
3. Open the carb to full throttle for 2-3 seconds.
4. Close the carb for 2-3 seconds.
5. Open the carb to full throttle for 2-3 seconds.
6. Engine should rev nice and clean during steps 3 to 5. If engine hesitates, it is too lean. If lean, richen the top-end needle. Maximum Engine PowerTo get the maximum power from a new engine, just follow these basic tips:
1. Ensure no air leaks - Make sure there are no air leaks by using high-temperature gasket or silicon sealants. Apply to areas such as the carburetor to the engine block, the exhaust manifold to the exhaust port of the engine block, and the back plate or pull-start mechanism against the engine block.
2. Proper motor break-in procedure - Run at least 3 tanks of fuel through the new engine, maintaining temperatures between 140 - 160 degrees. Vary the speed of the engine while running, but avoid going for top speed. Keep the body off during the break in process to keep the engine cool.
3. Proper running temperature - Basic guide is to keep engine temperatures between 200 - 210 degrees. But for more power you can lean out the engine a little more, and keep the temperature between 200 - 225 degrees.Running Temperature
Question; I have a bv1 and it has the os .15 engine. the running temp is 150F. what I cant seam to do is take of quick. it will always gurgle and then go. do I need to make it run hotter or should I tune the low end needle. I have seen peoples running temps at 230F is this alright. should I lean the high end needle more or lean the low end. im not sure if 150F is a low temp. is it?
Answer: 150F seems to be on the cold side. Gurgle (a rich sound) may indicate a "rich" low end. Tune the low end, then readjust the high end. With the temperature, I myself just use the spit test. If spit sizzles when put on the cylinder head fins, then it is too hot.Overheating Problems
Question; I have just bought a Traxxas 4tec nitro and am shocked at the speed of this thing but I am concerned by what others are telling me about it such as over heating problems also that the engine wont last if that is the case what other engine can fit on and will it be just as fast.
Answer: If you follow the tuning guide that comes with your engine you should be ok. Just make sure that the engines get enough cooling air to prevent overheating (usually cutting holes in the windshield). Also tune the engine carburetor to be on the slightly "rich" side.Overheating Problems Despite a Rich Setting
Question; I have a thunder tiger tsn-4 with .15 have probs with over heating no matter how rich I have the fuel. have the car at max rpm tune in to max rpm then rich it 1/8 of turn as I have been told runs great but will only go through about 1/2 a tank then will stop motor to hot with or without the body on.
Answer:
1. There is an air leak somewhere.
2. Maybe the low end needle setting (if it has one) is set too lean. Just keep in mind, a hot engine is one that has too much air and not enough fuel in the mixture entering the engine. So check anything the might increase air (air leaks) or decrease fuel (dirty fuel, pinched air hose, weak backpressure coming from the tuned pipe). - JoelToo Lean Here are some symptoms of an engine that is running too lean:
1. Dies or "flames out" at full throttle.
2. The glow plug wire or "element" turns white.
3. A drop of water or spit on the engine heat immediately sizzles. Too hot.
4. Dies while just idling.
5. Dies while accelerating from idle. Note this can also be caused by a rich engine.Too Rich Here are some symptoms of an engine that is running too rich:
1. A lot of blue smoke from the exhaust pipe.
2. A lot of unburned fuel exiting the exhaust pipe.
3. Idles properly, but bogs down an dies when the throttle is full applied.
4. Never reaches full top speed.
5. Engine temperature is too cold (e.g. below 200 F degrees)Glow Plugs
Glow plugs are very important to the performance of your engine. You can also read your glow plugs to determine if you are running too rich or too lean. A brand new glow plug has a wire or filament that is shiny. If after running the wire is still shiny and the bottom of the plug is wet, then you are running too rich. You are probably getting only 85% of the maximum engine power. If the wire turns starts to turn gray, and the bottom of the filament is slightly wet, then you are almost near the peak engine power. Once you have a gray wire, and the bottom of the plug is dry, you are at 100% maximum power. Once the glow plug wire starts to distort, you have exceeded the maximum power and are running too lean. Adjust to a slightly rich setting. Hot plugs are used for hot summer days, while cold plugs are designed for cold "winter" days.
Nitro Engine Tuning / Setup
MAXIMIZE YOUR ENGINE'S POWER POTENTIAL
So now you can get your engine started on a regular basis, but you’re still struggling with the fine-tuning that will score you a win at the racetrack (or bragging rights at the parking lot). Properly tuning a nitro engine can make that difference without jeopardizing its health. It takes time to learn how to really tune your engine, however. There’s a certain “feel” to how your car drives and a certain sound you’ll come to know when your engine has been ideally tuned. Other cues that you feel and hear tell you what to adjust when your engine isn’t running properly. When it’s time to tune your engine, there’s no substitute for plain old experience. Reading about engine tuning is helpful, but you need to experiment with your engine to improve your tuning skills. The good news is that the following tips will help you avoid some of the pitfalls of fine-tuning and achieve tuning proficiency more quickly.
BASE-LINE MIXTURE SETTINGS
Engine manufacturers often include base-line settings for the mixture needles, so it’s wise to start with these. If this information is not provided, then you must arrive at needle settings that will get the engine started. A universal starting point is usually about 1 turn open (counterclockwise) on the low-speed needle and somewhere in the 2- to 3-turn range on the high-speed needle. This varies among engines, but it gets you started running, and then you can make the necessary corrections. After the initial startup, follow the proper break-in procedure, then worry about performance tuning!
The proper sequence for adjusting the mixture needles is hotly debated. When you start to fine-tune the engine, it’s generally best to start with the high-speed needle, then set the low-speed. First, however, get your engine running, and keep it running before you worry about race tuning.
During break-in, the engine typically idles a long time, so it’s best to adjust the low-speed setting first so the engine runs slightly rich (loading up every 30 seconds or so). It requires an occasional “blip” of the throttle to clear out any raw fuel that has accumulated in the engine. Once break-in is finished, then get the high-speed needle in the ballpark.
Place the car on the ground and accelerate smoothly to give the engine a chance to build some heat. With the high-speed needle in the proper range, the engine should be able to rev relatively well up to full speed once it has been running for a few minutes on the track or parking lot.
FINE-TUNING
A word of caution first: there’s a fine line between the perfect tune and a blown or damaged engine. Nitro-engine fuel also contains engine lubricant, so as you get close to dialing in the mixture to where there is just enough fuel to burn and deliver maximum power, you also are close to having just enough oil to keep the engine lubricated. Anyone with experience in tuning 2-stroke engines can tell you that they run best right before they seize or blow up. Our engines are a little tougher and more capable of taking some abuse than bigger 2-strokes, but there’s no sense in pushing the mixture settings so lean that you risk damage to the engine. I can’t say this too often: get the engine up to full running temperature by running the car exactly as you would on the track or parking lot. The high-speed needle setting depends on the type of driving you do. I’ll start with a racing setup.
HIGH-SPEED NEEDLE
Racers will tune the high-speed setting to get from point A to point B as quickly as possible. (Performance also depends on a proper low-speed needle setting, but for now, let’s concentrate on the high-speed setting.) The best place to race tune your engine is on the track where you run. I prefer to set the high-speed mixture so the car can leg out the track’s longest straight section in the shortest time. Estimate the time by “feel” and gut instinct, or use a stopwatch for more accuracy. The high-speed mixture should be set to maximize engine performance for that particular track configuration. A short, tight track may require a main mixture setting just a shade on the lean side to provide maximum power out of the corners. You needn’t be concerned about high-rpm performance because the track is too small for the engine to ever reach peak rpm. A long, high-speed track may require a slightly rich main-needle setting. If an engine constantly revs at the upper limits of the rpm range, the fuel mixture should be richened to ensure proper lubrication across the entire rpm range. This slightly rich setting might reduce bottom-end acceleration to a degree, but longer tracks require a slightly richer mixture setting to let the engine rev to its limits without running dry of fuel and oil.
Why is it important to tune the engine to the track? A mixture needle can only provide optimum performance within a relatively narrow rpm range. Anywhere below this hypothetical rpm range, the engine runs slightly rich; anywhere above, it gets progressively leaner. Until we have fuel injection that constantly optimizes fuel mixture throughout the rpm range, there needs to be a degree of compromise with the mixture settings. So, ideally, set the mixture to provide the most power in an rpm range that is best suited to the track on which you run.
WIDE-OPEN RUNNING
Running in parking lots, particularly larger ones with a lot of breathing room, requires unique mixture settings. It’s a common mistake to establish mixture settings for maximum punch—as though the car will be run within the confines of a tight racetrack—and then to go out and run at wide-open throttle (WOT) in a huge parking lot for 5 minutes. This type of running is incredibly unhealthy for an engine to begin with, and compounding the problem with an excessively lean main-needle setting is a recipe for disaster. If you still insist on torturing your engine, the high-speed mixture setting needs to be as much as 1/4 turn richer than typical to provide optimum fuel for the upper rpm range. The engine will be a little softer when accelerating from a standstill, but it’s the only way to ensure there is an adequate supply of fuel and oil when running at the upper end of the rpm range. The inherent danger is that this type of running taxes the connecting rod and other engine components to their limits, but having the proper mixture setting will at least delay the inevitable.
LOW-SPEED NEEDLE
The high-speed needle is dialed in, so now let’s properly set the low-speed needle. It’s important to set it last because it simply regulates the fuel that flows from the main needle at low throttle settings. Lean out the main needle, and you automatically lean the low-speed needle as well. For this reason, it’s wise to finish with the low-speed setting.
Again, it’s imperative for the engine to be at full operating temperature. There are many methods of testing the low-speed needle setting; one is to pinch the fuel line. When you pinch the fuel line, the engine rpm increase slightly. Keep pinching it, and the engine will eventually stall. If the engine rpm increase dramatically, it indicates that the low-speed setting may be too rich. Or, if the low-speed setting is already too lean, the engine rpm may not increase much at all, and the engine will stall rather quickly. It’s a somewhat crude method and doesn’t tell you what to expect from the engine on the track, but it will get you into the ballpark.
Another common way is the “see-how-long-it-will-idle” method. The low-speed needle adjustment affects how long the engine will idle. A too lean fuel mixture causes the engine to race and possibly stall, limiting the duration of a steady idle. A too rich low-speed-mixture setting causes the engine idle to steadily drop and eventually stall. The ideal setting allows the engine to hold a smooth, steady idle for 10 to 20 seconds (max), and then the engine rpm decrease steadily because the crankcase loads up with fuel. Why? There are no awards given for the longest-idling engine. If the engine is able to idle steadily for a longer time, then it may start to lean out and heat up during a race and make it difficult to drive the car and keep the engine running. The only flaw in this method is that it doesn’t tell you whether you have an artificially rich mixture to compensate for an idle speed that’s too high.
A common mistake is to set the idle-speed screw to keep the carburetor open too far. The low-speed needle must then be artificially rich to bring the idle down to a reasonable rpm. The symptoms are similar to a too rich low-speed-mixture setting; there’s just a delay in the loss of engine rpm. How do you avoid this? This is also something that becomes easier with experience, but just continue to reduce the idle speed and lean the mixture until you know you can’t go any further. Bottom line: adjust the idle-speed screw to suit the fuel-mixture setting, not the other way around.
The simplest and most foolproof method to properly set the low-speed mixture is, again, to do it on the track. Set the low-speed needle so your car gets the strongest launch after sitting still for about 10 seconds. The engine should be able to pull strongly off the line without hesitation. A noticeable hesitation might be the result of either a rich or a lean low-speed mixture; knowing the difference takes experience, but look for signs that help point you in the right direction. How an engine decelerates can tell you as much as how it accelerates. If the engine spools down and rpm drops uncharacteristically low, it indicates that the low-speed-mixture setting is too rich. Or, if the engine takes too long to reach a steady idle and seems to want to keep revving, that tells you the low-speed-mixture setting is too lean. It can also indicate a lean high-speed-mixture setting, but that setting should have been addressed by properly setting the high-speed mixture first.
It will take a little time to get it right. If you make small adjustments and are patient, you really can’t do anything wrong. An adjustment you make in the wrong direction is reflected in engine performance; to correct the problem, simply go the other way.
CHANGING FUEL
Changing to a higher percentage of nitro fuel sounds like an easy method of developing more horsepower, but it isn’t always that simple. Without getting into all the particulars of nitro fuel, I’ll just say that there is a point where you can have too much nitro. Adding up to 10 percent more nitro than is typical produces more power, but you have to know how to adjust your engine to accommodate the extra nitro. Fuel-mixture settings need to be slightly richer when nitro content is increased. Also, you may have to increase head clearance by adding an extra head shim. The extra fuel introduced into the combustion chamber increases compression by adding non-compressible matter; this also increases cylinder pressure during the combustion process, which may cause detonation. Detonation occurs when the fuel explodes instead of burning, and that can cause internal engine damage. The extra head shim will likely prevent detonation when fuel with higher nitro content is used.
A final note about fuel: fuel with a lower oil content (for manufacturers that actually disclose the amount of oil in their fuels) should be run with a richer mixture setting. This doesn’t so much relate to performance as it does to the benefit of the engine. Conversely, fuels with higher oil content have the extra lubrication that allows a leaner mixture setting with less risk of engine damage. Fuels with a lower concentration of lubricant are intended for competition use by experienced engine tuners. These fuels will make marginally more power because the lubricant that’s removed is replaced with power-producing nitro and methanol. Evaluate your tuning ability honestly before you run out to buy fuel with a lower oil content.
GLOW PLUG
A glow plug’s temperature range is critical to proper performance. Small-block engines generally use warm to hot glow plugs, while big-block engines use plugs in the colder range. If you choose a plug in the wrong temperature range, you could be chasing the tune of your engine till the sun goes down. Changes of the relative temperature of the glow plug can be beneficial, however.
A combination of compression, heat and a catalytic reaction between the platinum in the glow-plug coil and the methanol in the fuel creates combustion in a nitro engine. Altering the heat range of your glow plug can alter the timing of the combustion process. Nitro engines don’t have an ignition system that can be used to advance or retard combustion timing, but a hotter plug that causes ignition a little earlier in the combustion process can have the same effect. “Advancing” the ignition timing can increase overall power output, especially at higher rpm. There are limits, however, and installing too hot a plug causes pre-ignition (detonation) and risks damaging your engine.
It’s a challenge to figure out a glow plug’s temperature range. Manufacturers don’t use a consistent and universal standard to rate the temperature ranges of their glow plugs. You will probably know the temperature of a plug relative to others within a given product line, but currently, no rating system allows comparisons among manufacturers. Here again, plain old experience with a variety of glow plugs will help you to know which are best for the effect you want.
“Reading” the glow plug is a tuning technique advanced by Ron Paris. It suggests that looking at the glow plug tells you something about how your engine is running. The element in a glow plug will turn gray in an engine that is close to the optimum fuel mixture. This method requires a new glow plug, as the element will eventually turn gray regardless of the needle settings; the length of time it takes to turn gray is the issue. Plugs that turn gray in just a tank or two of fuel (running at race pace, not diddling around) indicate a fuel mixture close to ideal—but also close to trouble. If the plug stays wet and shiny for a few tanks of fuel, you’re in the safe zone; a little rich but safe. When the plug wire gets distorted or broken, however, you’re in real trouble. It’s a sure sign that the mixture is way too lean, or that there is too much compression and the engine is detonating.
HEAD SHIMS
Engines are essentially air pumps. The engine takes air in, mixes it with fuel, and then the mixture is compressed and ignited. The additional pressure created by the burning fuel increases by a factor directly related to the amount of compression: increasing compression increases power output. But there are limits to the compression an engine tolerates. Too much causes the fuel mixture to combust too quickly, and that returns us to the same detonation scenario of an excessively hot glow plug.
The amount of compression is determined by the number and thickness of the shims (gaskets) between the cylinder head and the top of the piston sleeve. Well, it’s determined by many other factors, but the only one easily changed is the head clearance via head shims. More shims = less compression; less shims = more compression. Removing or replacing shims with thinner ones increases compression. Some engines have only one shim, so it isn’t advisable to run without a shim at all. Moderation is the key. Go slowly, and make small, not drastic, changes that will minimize the risk of damage to your engine. First and foremost, be sure the piston won’t hit the cylinder head if you remove a shim (or shims).
You can also change compression with glow plugs. Some manufacturers make a longer glow plug that protrudes slightly into the combustion chamber, effectively reducing the area in which the fuel mixture is compressed. This area is already small, and the little extra space occupied by a longer glow plug will raise compression. This is not the most desirable method, but it can be used on engines that have only one thin head shim. It’s unlikely that the longer plug will even come into contact with the piston, but just to be safe, check the head clearance before you install a long plug.
WEATHER CONDITIONS
It’s a simple fact: for optimum performance, you must retune your nitro engine every time you run it. Anyone who assumes that the needles can be left alone once they have been set is sadly mistaken. An overnight change in weather conditions may prevent an engine from running or may put it at risk of some damage if adjustments aren’t made to the fuel-mixture settings. Ignoring an engine’s tuning needs compromises its ability to make horsepower. In response to certain changes in weather, equipment and other variables, nitro engines must be regularly retuned.
Temperature
Hot weather requires a leaner mixture setting; cold weather requires a richer setting. Most people assume the opposite because they treat the mixture needle like a thermostat. It is wrong to assume that colder weather requires a leaner setting to keep heat in the engine and vice versa. Cold air is denser than hot air. The denser, colder air packs more oxygen into the engine, so going from hot weather to cold needs a commensurate increase of fuel to balance ratio of fuel-burning oxygen and the fuel itself. The opposite is true in hotter weather. Going from cold to hot weather requires a leaner mixture setting.
Humidity.
Humidity is the amount of moisture (water vapor) in the air. Moisture in the air takes up volume that would otherwise be occupied by fuel-burning oxygen. Less oxygen means less fuel is required to maintain a proper ratio of air and fuel. High humidity requires a leaner mixture setting than dry conditions.
Barometric pressure.
A barometer measures the atmospheric pressure (generally listed in the local newspaper or on the local weather forecast on TV). Higher barometric pressure readings mean more air is getting into the engine, requiring a richer mixture setting to balance the air/fuel ratio.
Altitude.
Altitude is an important factor that most of us ignore, yet it affects the engine’s performance possibly more than any other element. The general formula for power loss with increases in altitude is 3 percent for every 1,000 feet above sea level. If you race in Colorado at 5,000 feet instead of in California at sea level, you can expect to lose about 15 percent of the engine’s potential power output, if the engine is tuned properly. Air is thinner at higher altitudes, which means there’s less fuel-burning oxygen than at sea level. You might sense a common theme here: less air (oxygen) means less fuel to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio. So, running at higher altitudes requires a leaner mixture setting than running at sea level.
TUNED PIPE AND HEADER
Anyone who has been around 2-strokes knows that the exhaust system plays a major role in engine performance. Pipes and how they affect performance is a complete article in itself. I don’t want to get into the science of tuned pipes here, I’ll simply suggest that volume (assuming the pipe doesn’t stray too far from convention) determines where the pipe will go to make the best power. Smaller pipes with lower overall volume make the best top-end power, while the fatter, longer pipes with greater volume provide the best bottom-end punch. Selecting the proper tuned pipe can have a very noticeable impact on your application.
Headers can be modified by almost any enthusiast. The length of the header is important to squeezing more power out of your engine. Longer headers deliver better bottom-end power, while shorter headers make better top end. Shorten a header by cutting it with a hacksaw or a Dermal tool. Cut it in 1/8-inch increments, and measure the performance to determine whether any improvement has occurred. Continue cutting until performance levels off. If you need to add back on to the length of the header because you’ve cut too much and performance is suffering, simply increase the gap between the header and pipe, but don’t expose more than 1/4 inch of coupler. If the header is too short by greater than 1/4 inch, just get a new one.
CLUTCH
I’ve spent lots of time trying to chase away a nasty bog in the engine as it came off the line or out of a corner, only to find later that the problem was the clutch. Some clutches are built properly at the factory, but in my experience, most engage too early, which hobbles the engine coming out of every corner. Tuning the clutch to engage at the proper rpm puts more power to the ground than most could imagine.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
You’ll notice that I have not once mentioned a temperature gauge. The worst thing you can do is to tune an engine to run at a specific temperature. Engine temperature is affected by a number of factors, only one of which is fuel mixture. Weather and many other factors play a role in engine temperature, so tuning to run at the same temperature every time shortchanges the engine’s potential to make power. Yes, most engines run in the 200- to 300-degree range, so checking that the engine stays within this range is valuable to a certain extent. As a result of different weather conditions and other variables, however, the same engine—when tuned for peak power output—can vary as much as 50 degrees. A temp gauge is a reference tool that you should use only to build a data bank of tuning information. A temp gauge should not be used as a tuning tool. Don’t tune an engine to run at 230 degrees all the time. Prevailing conditions may require a mixture setting that causes the engine to make maximum power while running at 270 degrees. You’ll never know that if you always target the same temperature.
CONCLUSION
Engine tuning is not a black art; it just takes time to learn the particulars so you can maximize your power plant's performance. Take the time to read and learn, and you will avoid the mistakes most of us made in learning the ropes. I thought I had it licked 10 years ago, but I’m still learning. We never really stop learning; sometimes, we just get too smart for our own good. Experiment a little with some of the tips, and you’ll find there’s more power to be made with less effort than you thought. Some of the modifications involve a bit of risk; just take it slowly, and use your “noodle.” It’s hard to make a mistake you can’t correct.
Airtight is Right In order for an engine to idle, transition and tune consistently it must be airtight- airtight meaning that no air can enter the engine except through the carburetor intake. Surprisingly, even brand new out-of-the-box high-end engines can have air leaks and until these leaks are found and eliminated, the engine won't run consistently and cannot be precisely tuned. The good news is, several years ago I figured out an easy way to check for and fix air leaks.
You'll need the following:
• A small glass of soapy water
• A small brush
• About a foot of fuel tubing
Step 1. Be sure that the high-speed needle is open at least two turns out and the throttle is at fully open.
Step 2. Install one end of the fuel tubing on the carburetor nipple. You're going to be blowing into the other end of the tubing to pressurize the engine crankcase.
Step 3. Place your thumb over the carburetor intake to prevent air from escaping, then blow into the fuel tubing while brushing soapy water around the base of the carburetor, on both sides of the pinch bolt, around the fuel fittings, at the high and low speed needle valves, around the front bearing and even around the back plate. If any bubbling occurs you've got an air leak. But don't be alarmed. Fixing the leak is easy and your engine will run remarkably better and more consistently when you've eliminated these leaks.THE FIX
Brushing soapy water around all possible air leak points while pressurizing the case will easily identify air leaks. The most common air leaks seem to occur around the pinch bolt. Applying a dab of RTV (or silicon) over both exposed sides of the pinch bolt will fix this type of leak. RTV is also great for sealing any leaks around the base of the carburetor. Simply remove the carburetor and run a small amount of RTV around the base of the carb where the leak occurred. Reinstall the carburetor and allow the RTV to ooze out between the crankcase and the carb body. For leaks around the high-speed needle valve fittings, usually retightening the high-speed needle assembly will take care of these. Leaks directly at the high speed or low speed needle usually means there's a damaged O-ring that must be replaced. Many racers don't realize that the front bearing can leak air. That's why nearly every high-end engine uses a rubber sealed front ball bearing to not only keep out dirt, but also air. If your front bearing leaks air, it's time for a bearing replacement. This simple leak check can easily be done even when the engine is installed in a car. After you've done this test on several engines you'll be surprised of two things: first, how often unwanted air leaks occur and second, how much better your engine runs, idles and tunes when it's airtight. To run right it must be airtight!
AIRTIGHT FUEL SYSTEM
The Fuel system must also be airtight. If the fuel tank, tank lid, fuel lines or filter has a leak then the same kind of tuning issues as described above will occur. While you can check the fuel system by using the same method of brushing soapy water onto the suspected offending area while blowing into the tank, I generally find it better to simply remove the tank from the car and submerse it in a sink of water while blowing into the vent line and plugging the fuel line. If bubbles are present you've got a leak. An engine at full throttle produces about 6 to 8 psi in the vent line and conversely in the tank. By blowing really hard you're also able to produce about 6 to 8 psi for a couple of seconds. If you're able to blow hard enough to cause the tank lid to open slightly and leak, it's time to replace the tank lid spring or bend more preload in the spring. The entire system (fuel tank, fuel filters, fuel lines, tank fittings, etc.) must be airtight to achieve consistent repeatable performance. I always that my fuel system is airtight when it's new but also recheck it every time I rebuild a car after a race. It easy insurance plus soapy water is a good way to thoroughly clean the tank. Just be sure it's totally dry before using it by flushing out any water left in the tank with fuel before installing it in you car.
TUNING IN A PINCH
The Pinch Test. Many racers find it difficult to properly tune the low speed needle. We've developed a method that makes it easy, even for beginners, to adjust the low speed needle to within 5% of peak performance and it's done right on the bench. We call it the pinch test and here's how it works.
Step 1. Start your engine and warm it up for about 30 seconds by revving the engine from idle to mid-throttle while holding the wheels off the ground.
Step 2. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds. If the low speed needle tuning is so far off that it won't idle, simply bump the idle position higher until the engine will reliably run at a higher idle.
Step 3. With the engine at idle, pinch and hold the fuel line near the carburetor, cutting off the fuel flow and carefully listen to the engine rpm. If the low speed needle is set correctly, the engine should increase rpm only slightly and then die. If the engine increases several hundred rpm before dying, then the low speed needle is too rich and needs to be turned in. If the rpm doesn't increase at all and the engine simply dies, the low speed needle is set too lean and should be richened or turned out.After doing this a few times you'll get the hang of it, and tuning the low speed needle will become easy. The only way to get that last 5% performance on the low speed tune is through careful track testing. By evaluating the engine as it accelerates from a dead stop or out of slow corners during actual race conditions is the only way to get those last few percent of power from your engine.
Variables like the clutch setting, gearing, traction, atmospheric conditions and even the car's weight will have an effect on this last 5% of tuning performance, and the optimum setting can only be reached by careful on-track tuning.FINE TUNING IN A PINCH
On high traction tracks instant throttle response and acceleration are the keys to being competitive. To get that last 5% of performance thru tuning, many top drivers and engine tuners use the punch test. Here's how it works. With the high speed needle properly set and the low speed needle set per the pinch test above, run several laps at race pace to bring the engine up to temperature. Now stop the car at the beginning of the main straight and allow it to idle while you count to 15. At the count of 15, hit the throttle instantly full punch while carefully listening to the engine and note the rate of acceleration. If you did a good job with the pinch test above and the high-speed needle is properly set as described below, the car should rocket off the line with a powerful, crisp consistent engine sound. The trick here is to tune the low speed needle for even greater acceleration and an even crisper throttle response. Do this punch test several times until your very familiar with the acceleration rate (it helps to judge the amount of wheel spin) and the sound of the engine as it accelerates to full throttle. Now lean the low speed needle 1 hour (or 1/12th of a turn) and do the punch test again. Is the engine's acceleration rate and the crisp consistent sound better than in the previous test? Remember judging the wheel spin (the amount the wheels slip during heavy acceleration) is a good way to compare. If it's better or there's no change, lean the low speed needle 1 hour more and try the punch test again. At some point the engine will lean bog (hesitate) off the line during acceleration indicating that you've gone too far. When you finally find this point through repeated punch tests then leaning the low speed needle one hour each time, richen the low speed needle 2 hours. This will be your engines peak setting giving maximum acceleration and throttle response for the specific conditions of the day. Just remember if you change anything, like gear ratios, clutch settings, exhaust systems, fuel, glow plugs and even changing atmospheric conditions like temperature and barometric will cause this optimum setting to change. Repeat the punch test often and especially just before a heat race to ensure maximum performance during the existing conditions.
THE DREADED FULL TANK LEAN BOG
The key to eliminating full tank lean bogs is pressure tube position or adding a pressure reservoir as shown. If you've done much gas racing, you've probably encountered the dreaded lean bog that occurs right after a pit stop with a full tank of fuel. Right after the tank is filled, for about the next 3 or 4 laps the engine sags (lean bogs) when accelerating off of tight right-hand corners. On most tracks this happens when accelerating onto the straight. Seemingly, the lean bog magically goes away after a few laps but sure enough, after the next pit stop, it frustratingly returns-slowing lap times for several laps once again. To solve this frustrating issue, it's important to understand what's causing it. Here's the scoop. As the throttle is released entering a turn, the pressure in the tank is now greater that the reduced pressure in the pipe. When the tank is full, some of the fuel sloshes up into the pressure line. The centrifugal forces encountered in a right hand turn further pulls the fuel into the pressure line, causing reduced pressure in the tank. When the throttle is cracked open to accelerate, the engine goes lean because of this reduced tank pressure and hence the dreaded lean bog occurs. The reason it only lasts for a couple of laps is first, as the fuel level goes down in the tank it's less likely to slosh as much into the pressure line and second, as the fuel level goes down there is a larger open space in the tank that's pressurized, maintaining adequate pressure long enough to prevent the low pressure lean bog problem. (If your exhaust system is mounted on the left side, as with some of the latest monster trucks, then this phenomenon will occur in left hand turns.)
THE FIX
Keep the fuel out of the pressure line! That's sometimes easier said than done. We've had the most success by rerouting the pressure line so that as it come off the pressure nipple, the tubing goes to the right side of the fuel tank, then makes a loop on the right side of the tank. This prevents the centrifugal force of a right hand turn from filling the pressure tube. We've also had good success by adding one of the big reservoirs (they look like a big aluminum fuel filter and are available from Mugen or OFNA) in the pressure line. Many manufacturers, like Mugen and Serpent, recognize this problem and are making special pressure pickups and tank lids with large open volumes in the lid itself. You may have noted that many top drivers' cars have several loops of fuel tubing wrapped in their cars and wondered what was the purpose. Now you know. The key to fixing this issue is to experiment with pressure tube routing and, if necessary, installing a pressure reservoir in the pressure line.
VAPOR LOCK
Compressed CO2 sprayed directly onto the carburetor is a great way to prevent vapor lock during long main flame-outs. If you've ever had your engine flame out after a reasonably long run and then found it nearly impossible to re-start, you may have experienced vapor lock. Vapor lock occurs most often in .12- and .15-size engines, especially when they're enclosed in a body with a 1/10-scale gas sedan or stadium truck.
Vapor lock normally occurs after the engine is shut off. Heat from the head and combustion chamber transfers through the crankcase, heating the carburetor to the point that the fuel that reaches the carburetor through the fuel line boils off. This makes it impossible to start the engine because it's starved for fuel. The only way to get the engine to run is to cool the carburetor below the fuel's boiling point. If you're sport driving, you can simply wait 5 minutes for the carb to cool on it's own and then restart. If you're in the middle of an important long main, here are some creative ways racers have (including at the world championship level) cooled their carburetors preventing vapor lock:
1. A bottle of compressed CO2 (or air like those that can be purchased to operate airbrushes) with a nozzle attached, allowing cold CO2 to be directed over the carburetor even when the body is in place. We've seen several top-level race teams use this CO2 method anytime the engine flames out to prevent the possibility of a vapor lock. 2. By pulling the air filter and simply dumping fuel from the fuel bottle over the carburetor, usually bringing the temperature back to a tolerable level within a minute. Just be sure to avoid getting fuel on the brakes, radio equipment or tires or you could be in for a bad race day!Pit Tips & Tricks
Everyone you seem to ask has a different opinion of what type of fuel to use. No fuel is ideal for every application or is it a fact that a higher percentage of nitro results in better all Series performance. The correct percentage of nitro in a fuel and its effects on engine performance are rather complex issues due to the many variables as in climate, humidity and glow plugs used. To understand how nitro content affects engine performance, it helps to have a little basic understanding of nitro.
Nitro methane is a monopropellant which means it can burn in the absence of air. Nitro Methane contains nitrogen and oxygen, which provides more "fuel" for the combustion process The oxygen contained in nitro methane is released during the combustion process allowing richer needle settings that pack more fuel in the combustion chamber. More fuel plus more air potentially equals more horsepower when engines are designed to run on fuels containing nitro methane or the amount of nitro methane that you run.
There are a great deal more technical aspects to Nitro Methane, but this explains why you can produce more power with it.
Now running more nitro does not always mean more horsepower, the engine has to be designed to run the amount of nitro methane you intend to use. Running 30% nitro fuel in an engine designed for low to no nitro methane content, will not yield anything but poor, hot running engine characteristics. Using 0% nitro fuel in an engine designed for 20% or higher nitro will yield equally poor running engine characteristics.
RC cars and trucks with engine sizes .12 >.18 usually use 10%-20% nitro content fuel with 8%-16% oil content. It is hard for one person to tell you which fuel to use for your particular vehicle due the varying conditions of your surrounding area. If you wish to find out what really works, go down to your local track to see what everyone uses, that's the easiest way. RC cars and trucks with engines from .21 >.27 typically use more nitro content. The common range is from 20%-40% and around 8%-18% oil content. Fuels have different oils, and at different altitudes their flash points are different, so some people say a particular fuel is good, but for someone else it is not. It is mostly trial and error for which fuel will run best for your liking
Ziploc air-filter holder Pick up a few spare air-filter elements and store them in a Ziploc bag. Pour air-filter lube into the bag, and you'll always have filters ready when you go racing. The oil wont leak out, so you won't end up with a mess in your toolbox. Use the bag only to store clean, lubed filters.
High-capacity glow igniter Add a cell to your glow igniter to double its capacity. You'll need to do some grinding and soldering, but the results will be worth it. Solder the cells in parallel, as shown, and use Shoe-Goo to glue them together. Two 3300 cells wired in parallel will provide 6600mAh. That's enough to last for weeks of racing.
Jewel-box crystal case Here's a clever way to keep your crystals safe and organized. Take a CD jewel case and remove the section that held the CD. Next, use a hobby knife to cut out small squares of thin foam rubber (toolbox drawer liners work great) as shown. A typical jewel case can easily hold 35 crystals.
Easy decal application When installing large decals, use the decal's paper backing as a handle, as shown. You can also use the backing to burnish the decal after you've applied it.
No-mess diff-ball greasing Cut a slit in the bag that the diff balls came in, and then squeeze diff grease into the bag. Work the grease around the balls, and then remove them one at a time as you build your diff. The greased diff balls will stick to the tip of a hobby-knife blade, and installing them in the diff-gear holes will be much easier.
Cheap exhaust-tip plug To prevent oil and fuel from spilling out, use a foam earplug as an exhaust-tip plug. Push it into the exhaust tip after you've finished running your vehicle for the day, and you won't have to worry about spilling fuel and oil and making a mess.
Revo air scoop Here's a great tip for Revo owners. The stock Revo body has an air scoop molded in its left side, and you can open it to provide additional engine cooling. Start the hole with a tapered reamer, and then enlarge it with a sanding-drum-equipped Dermal.
Fuel-tubing shock bushing If you lose the plastic or metal shock bushing in the shock cap, substitute a 3mm slice of fuel tubing.
Revive your Dermal tool bits Dermal sanding drums and tool bits can easily become glazed and dulled with normal use, especially if you grind a lot of plastic and Lexan. These materials melt quite easily from the friction of the sanding, and that can leave a mess of melted plastic on the drum. I've seen racers throw away those bits, and that is a waste. You can usually bring a Dermal bit back to life by grinding the surface with a diamond-faced file (available at most hardware stores). Install the bit on the Dermal, and spin it at 3/4 speed. Use the file to remove the glazed-over sections or melted plastic.
T-Maxx simplified shock mounting The front and rear inboard-mounted shocks on Traxxas trucks can be a pain to remove because of the difficult-to-access shoulder screws that secure them to the tower. To change this, install the shocks with Team Associated Monster GT shock-mounting hardware (item no. 25070) instead of the eight shoulder screws that came with the truck. You'll have to drill the shock-mounting screw holes all the way through the shock tower with a 3mm drill bit (or one of a similar size) so a pair of inboard and outboard shocks can be mounted to the shock tower with a single screw and nut. This mod significantly simplifies shock mounting
Secure antenna routing The antenna leads on most 75MHz receivers are longer than the antenna tubes that are provided with most RTRs. Extra wire sticking out of the antenna tube not only looks hack, it also exposes the antenna to damage. For a cleaner and more secure installation, cut 2mm off the open end of the rubber antenna cap, feed the antenna lead through the tube, and secure the extra wire to the outside of the antenna tube with the ring that you just cut. Then slide the end cap over the tip of the antenna.
Better receiver seal Dirt that accumulates inside your receiver can cause glitching. Open your receiver's case, shake out the dirt, and then close it. Seal the receiver case's seam with tape. Also cover the unused third channel or battery slot (if you run an electric car) with a clear piece of decal material or tape. This tip is also good for speed controls; you'd be surprised how much dirt can get in through the setup-button opening.
More secure preload adjusters Threaded-body shocks are very cool and easy to adjust, but the preload collars on some of those shocks have a tendency to ?drift? and change the preload setting while you?re driving. Install preload clips above the knurled preload adjusters to prevent the collars from moving and changing your settings.
Long-lasting glow-plug starter Nothing beats the convenience of a rechargeable glow-starter, unless you forget to charge it. As a backup, keep a 1.5V lantern battery and model-airplane-type ?remote? glow starter in your pit bag. The glow starter clips to the battery with alligator clips, and one lantern battery can easily last a full six months of weekend racing.
Vent for better handling The vent holes drilled into most monster truck rims are too small, so they don't allow the air to vent out fast enough when the vehicle lands from a jump or runs over obstacles. This can cause the tires to bounce excessively when going over bumps (instead of absorbing the impacts), which leads to erratic handling. Enlarging the holes slightly or drilling a few more similar size air-vent holes will help the air escape faster, and that will improve your truck's handling. A tapered reamer works great for enlarging the vent holes in the plastic rims.
Magnetized parts bowl There's nothing worse than losing a screw, E-clip, or other small metal part when you're wrenching on your car, so Matthew uses a magnetized parts bowl from Sears to hold small parts when he works on his gear. Make your own magnetized bowl in any size by adding a stick-on magnet (available from the craft store) to the bottom of any metal container. You can also use the magnetic container to find lost parts when working over a carpeted floor. Just slide the magnetic base over the carpet until it grabs the missing item.
Improved fuel-tank lid seal The quick-fill caps on some fuel tanks won't close or seal completely when the rubber O-ring inside the cap is new or just dry. Some lids are adjustable; if yours isn't, apply a little grease to the O-ring to allow the cap to close completely and provide a better seal.
Nickel-and-dime ride-height gauge Forgot your ride-height gauge? No problem; you can use the change in your pocket to adjust your touring car's ride height. For asphalt, most racers set up their cars with a 5mm ride height. A stack of three quarters or four dimes equals 5mm. Set up the stack of coins, and lower or raise the ride height until the chassis just grazes the coins as it rolls over them.
No more E-clips Instead of relying only on E-clips to keep your car's hinge pins in place, add a 4-40 setscrew for extra security. To do this, drill a hole in the arm mount or hub carrier (whichever part has more 'meat') so the setscrew will intersect the hinge pin bore, and drill the hole slightly smaller than the setscrew so it will thread properly. Next, grind a flat spot on the hinge pin where the setscrew pinches it, and assemble the parts so the setscrew tightens against the flat. No more lost hinge pins!
Q-Tips tips Cotton swabs are a great addition to your toolbox. You can use them to clean hard-to-reach areas on your car, like around the base of the carburetor and between wheel spokes. They're also great for cleaning out brush hoods and applying comm drops.
Electric toothbrush parts cleaner Here's another great tip from Justin: use an old electric toothbrush to clean RC parts. The rotating bristles clean off the tough-to-remove stains on tuned pipes and other parts that have built-up fuel and dirt. Spray a little WD-40 onto the bristles and make suspension arms and other plastic parts look like new. Justin Scheller - San Juan Capistrano, CA
Easy-access camber adjustment Dish wheels look great, but they make adjusting camber on vehicles with pivot-ball suspensions impossible; you have to remove them. Using a tapered reamer, make a hole that allows you to pass a hex wrench through the wheel and access the pivot balls to make quick and easy camber adjustments.
Easier ball-diff building Tired of dropping those tiny differential balls? Use the tube of diff grease to pick up the balls. Just squeeze a dab out onto the tip, and use the sticky stuff to pick up each diff ball and put it into its hole in the diff gear. David Andrews - Ripon, UK
Bubble-wrap tire inserts When a monster truck's foam inserts get wet, the tires wobble badly. Bubble wrap? the type used for packing? works well as tire inserts and doesn't absorb moisture as foam does. Use the 'smaller' bubble wrap, and layer it over the rims. It takes a little effort to make it fit properly, but it's well worth the minor hassle. D. Clark - Chicago, IL
Clean with agitation Electric jewelry cleaners are great for cleaning small parts such as bearings and clutch components. The vibrating action works well to remove dirt and built-up gunk. The basket holds the parts and keeps them away from the dirt that falls to the bottom. For best results, fill the trough with jewelry cleaner or WD-40. Justin Scheller - San Juan Capistrano, CA
Neatness counts Instead of using nylon zip-ties that have to be cut and replaced when you need to do maintenance, use the plastic bindings that are used on small booklets. You can buy them at a stationery store. Simply cut them to the length you need and glue them into the chassis. You'll now easily be able to add or remove wires.
Secure your servos Run rubber grommets on your nitro vehicle's servos. They will reduce the likelihood of damage to the case ears, they'll decrease vibration, and they'll also help to prevent glitching.
Do-it-yourself deep-dish TC wheels You can easily make your own deep-dish, wide-offset touring car wheels by cutting the mounting flange off the back of the wheel and then gluing the flange to the front of the wheel. Be sure to sand the flange and the wheel before you glue them together. The wheels will look cool, and they'll give your car a slightly wider track.
Protective-film body repair Associated's clear protective film (item no. 6312) also works great to repair cracks and holes in Lexan bodies. Just cut a piece out and stick it on the crack in the body. The film will last a long time, and one sheet can be used to repair many bodies.
Protect your antenna wire Most clamp-type antenna tubes will fray the antenna wires where they go through the slot in the clamp and wear against the sharp metal edges. This can lead to a damaged receiver wire and glitching. Run an O-ring beneath and above the wires to protect your antenna wires and avoid this problem.
Increase rear down force If your touring car feels a little loose, you can enlarge the surface area of the rear wing with a strip of scrap Lexan. Cut a piece of Lexan that's the same length as the wing, and attach it to the end of the wing with double-sided tape. Trim the strip's height to adjust down force.
Prevent clutch slippage After rebuilding a new clutch and replacing the bearings, clean the grease out of the rear bearing (closest to the clutch) with motor spray. Also, blow out the bearing with an air compressor if you can. This will greatly reduce the life of that bearing, but it will prevent the clutch from slipping because the grease was thrown out of the bearing during the first few tanks after you replaced it.
Free parts tray Once washed thoroughly, the foam trays used for packaging meat work great for holding small parts when you work on your cars. They prevent the small parts from rolling around, and you can stick the screws into the foam to keep them in any order you want, so you'll remember their installation order. Gary Nelson Chillicothe, OH
Foam toolbox liners High-density foam works great for lining your toolbox drawers. The lining will protect your tools, parts, or whatever else you keep in your toolbox during transportation. Cut the foam to size, and install a piece in each compartment. Pick up big sheets of high-density foam at a hardware store or at Wal-Mart for less than $5 per sheet. Sylvain Lacroix Manchester, NH
Cheap and effective circle cutter You can make a circle cutter from a 99-cent school-supply compass and a no. 11 hobby knife. Install the hobby knife in the clamp where you would normally put a pencil. Pass a screw through the graduated scale, and secure the screw with a nut on the other side. Once you have the compass set to the desired radius, tighten the nut to hold the setting while you cut. Perfect for cutting out cooling holes on bodies. Kevin Tuazon Granada Hills, CA
Zenoah pull-starter protector The pull-start housings on Zenoah and other similar gasoline engines have intake vents that feed air to the internal cooling fan. Unfortunately, these vents can suck in small objects such as rocks and leaves that may clog the intake, or worse, damage the pull-start mechanism and cooling fan. The best solution is to apply mesh window screen (available at most hardware stores) to the inside of the pull-start housing to prevent objects from entering. Use Pacers' Zap-a-Dap-a-Goo to glue the screen in place. Michael Lawlor Dingmans Ferry, PA
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